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RB30 Engineers help PLZ!!

ABuSD

By ABuSD,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
Posted

Hiya peeps, unfortunatly my trusty old RB25DET decided to give up! Ive been offered a good deal on an RB30 block, but im worried about getting it all engineered and legal, i have to do this because im selling my car in OCT/NOV as i am going O/S to live for a year. Does any1 know if i need one or how hard it is to get an engineers with an RB30 block? Can i throw in an RB26 into my GTS-t and not have to get an engineers because that engine came out in that same model anyways? (maybe im better off doing that?!)

Anyways any help from u guys would be SOOOO appreciated!!

Cheers :D

BTW: I want an RB30 because it will work out cheaper for me than getting another whole RB25DET.

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ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah 4got about that, is it possible to put the internals in? would it make it like 2.7 litre or something? (I dont think its possble, because if u could do that when people put forgies in they would use RB30 ones then every1 would have these hybrids i reckon!)

Cheers

Bl4cK32 Grand Master

Bl4cK32

Posted
Posted
Can't put an older motor in a newer car.

Use RB25 Block, put RB30 internals in.

HAHAHAHA cant happen my friend. rb30 block is approx 1 inch or 41mm (?) taller than the rb25, ie longer stroke. Unless u want pistons coming up past the top of the block go ahead :D Its the same motor as well, (below the water pump) just larger cubes....

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

if you're going overseas.. why are you bothering ?

Sell whats left of the old RB25DET, whack another standard RB25DET and be done with it. RB30 bottom end is only if you're going to get serious about a big HP motor, and you're not keeping it anyhow.

Yes, it will be harder to get an engineers for an RB30 bottom end, and also EPA testing and the rest. You'll need the engineers to be able to change ownership of the car.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

What's this engineeered crap? :wassup:

When you buy a new engine block from Nissan it has no engine numbers on it. The idea is, if you are replacing your old engine block then it must be damaged, so you transfer (stamp) your old engine number onto the new block. RB30 blocks are 30 mm taller than RB25/26/20 blocks, but they are hard for an inexperienced person to tell the difference. Get my drift :D

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
BTW: I want an RB30 because it will work out cheaper for me than getting another whole RB25DET.

A second hand RB25 will cost around $2k, less if you just take a short motor and bolt your working bits on. An RB30 conversion will easily double that. The block is probably the cheapest part of the conversion.

ABuSD Veteran

ABuSD

Posted
  • Author
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Thanks for the input guys!! Yeah i think i willl take ur advice and just buy another RB25 and sell off the spare parts hanging off mine! That would probably work out the cheapest!

BTW: Can u still buy the RB30 block new from nissan?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
A second hand RB25 will cost around $2k, less if you just take a short motor and bolt your working bits on. An RB30 conversion will easily double that. The block is probably the cheapest part of the conversion.

Hi JimX, those injectors will be ready next week. The boys made up some tricky stuff (mechanical and electrical) to check them, very accurate flow tests results now. I will PM you.

On RB30 costs...

used RB30E short $200

new rings, bearings and seals $650

machine, o'ring, presure test, tunnel, bore, hone $750

assemble $500

Total $2,100

One of these made 475 bhp on the engine dyno with an R32 RB25DE top end, almost 4 years, still running strong. I don't think a used, $2K RB25DET is gunna make anywhere near the average power that it did either. RIPS in NZ has used this same philosophy a few times and ended up with good results for little money.

Just because some people get carried away with mega RB30's, doesn't mean you have to.

PS; ABuSD, you are not going to have the car for long enough to enjoy the RB30, so my recommendation is the same as the other guys, get a used RB25 and sell yours.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted
Hi JimX, those injectors will be ready next week.  The boys made up some tricky stuff (mechanical and electrical) to check them, very accurate flow tests results now.  I will PM you.

On RB30 costs...

used RB30E short $200

new rings, bearings and seals $650

machine, o'ring, presure test, tunnel, bore, hone $750

assemble $500

Total $2,100

That's the cheapest quote I've seen for an RB30 conversion. Is there a workshop in Sydney that can do it for that? A lot of the costs I've seen weren't in the building of the engine itself, but in getting all the new bits to line up on the old block, tapping oil lines to match, running new pulleys for the timing belt, etc. Then shoehorning it in. I know installation is *fairly* straightforward, but can it be done as easily as another RB25? Does the exhaust manifold have problems lining up due to the extra height?

Admittedly, the forged pistons that most people get are what usually drive it up over $4k, but even minus that I would still think it'd be around $3k to cover the lot.

As for the injectors, sweet! :rofl:

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
That's the cheapest quote I've seen for an RB30 conversion. Is there a workshop in Sydney that can do it for that? A lot of the costs I've seen weren't in the building of the engine itself, but in getting all the new bits to line up on the old block, tapping oil lines to match, running new pulleys for the timing belt, etc. Then shoehorning it in. I know installation is *fairly* straightforward, but can it be done as easily as another RB25? Does the exhaust manifold have problems lining up due to the extra height?

Admittedly, the forged pistons that most people get are what usually drive it up over $4k, but even minus that I would still think it'd be around $3k to cover the lot.

As for the injectors, sweet! :rofl:

Hi JimX, in the "machine" costs is included drill and tap the block for cambelt pulley (the idler is already done), drill and tap for oil return to the sump (there is a cast flat there for it), oil supply and water supply are easily unblocked. Exhaust manifold clearance (water gallery) takes 5/10 minutes with the die grinder, it's not included as most guys use aftermarket manifolds that seem to fit without it. Better add $30 for that.

You probably would need a spacer (between the dump and the engine pipe) to clear the foot well, although some exhausts have plenty of clearance. Each car is different. Better add $20 for that.

I forgot the long cambelt, the're $40 or so.

The trick is to never mention "SKYLINE", it's for an "old VL Commondoor". As soon as you mention the "SKYLINE" word, the price of everything seems to double.

The real problem with the budget is people keep adding things as they go along and they quickly spend that extra $1K you were talking about. You know what I mean, there is the gap between the cambelt covers, it would be nice to have it covered. It would be nice to have the VVT working. Then there is some nice VHT paint or HPC of the block, and an adj camshaft pulley, the cam covers need polishing, and the cross over pipe, should I put better bearings in it, what about a brand name head gasket etc etc.

With some self control, you could do it on that budget, most people choose not to, that's all.

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

Another thing I forgot on the RB25DET replacement, is the refund you get on the head when you sell it. On the RB30 you obviously have to re-use it. I dunno, the RB30 would offer better bang for buck, but I think you couldn't get away with spending LESS money than simply putting in another RB25. I guess it depends on how much spare cash you have, and how much effort (as in time with the car off the road) you're willing to put in.

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