Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After much consideration I’m selling my baby (R32 GTR)..... this is an awesome car and has never let me down. I’ve serviced it every 5.000km’s and sometimes sooner with always the best oils and consumables.

Most of the modifications were done by the previous owner and I’ve just refined it to my taste/style.

This car has never been thrashed at all and is always warmed up before using any boost and let to rest before turning the car off.

The only reason I’m selling is to concentrate on my other projects more seriously (drift & circuit cars) as otherwise I’ll be too tempted to keep spending money on this car.

This car is a real head turner and has the best sounding engine/exhaust note I’ve ever heard. If you’re after one of the cleanest and best looking 32gtr’s with power to boot, then look no further. This package makes a very responsive 320kw tuned by Trent at Chequered Tuning.

The car is going in to get its front bar and grill re-sprayed on Tuesday (19/02) after an incident with an evil drive through laser car wash which blasted the car at what seemed like a million psi and caused some very fine chips in the front bar.

Car has the following mods and most receipts are available-

Engine/Driveline/Electrics

Rebuilt RB26 by John French motors in QLD

Blueprinted engine assembly

All seals, gaskets, pulleys replaced.

R34 Block

R33 Crank

Forged CP Pistons and rings

Prepped standard rods with ARP rod bolts

Custom upgraded countersunk crank girdle

Internally baffled sump

ARP Main and Head Stud Kit

N1 Oil and Water pumps

Mild Head Porting with Competition Valve Seats

Tomei full Metal gasket kit

Tomei Type B 260/9.15mm cams and new cam cap bolts (R34 CAS fitted to suit exhaust cam)

Tomei Adjustable cam gears

R34 N1 BB Steel Wheeled turbos

Full 3" custom exhaust including Ceramic coated (inside and out) dump pipes.

Apexi PFC ECU

Greddy ProfecB boost controller

Splitfire coilpacks

Tomei Fuel Pump

Siemens 750cc injectors

Apexi dual intake

Candy red engine covers

Greddy clear cam gear cover

HPC coated Twin Turbo pipe and Inlet manifold.

Dual Oil/Air Separator and catch can system

Front air diversion plate

Oil filter relocation kit

Probably more to list but that gives an idea for now...

Exterior

Resprayed in factory Charcoal Grey but with more pearl, bonnet was only panel not painted as car had Carbon bonnet on it previously but is still in good condition...car is very, very straight.

Carbon Fibre N1 rear lip from Just Jap

Satin black front lower lip

Brand new Genuine NISSAN and GTR badges on Boot lid

N1 front bar vents

Interior

Very good condition, no bubbling of dash or cracks, seats are clean

Brand new centre vent fitted

Stock 32 GTR wheel and shifter boot professionally retrimmed in genuine leather with red stitching.

All gauges working perfectly

Nismo white gear knob

Sony Xplod 52x4 MP3 head unit and speakers

Immobiliser fitted

Suspension

Front and Rear cusco strut braces

Koni Yellow shocks, circlip height and damper adjustable with Whiteline H/D Springs front and rear, rides nice and firm, car feels very tight.

Selby adjustable front swaybar

Recently installed new genuine outer lca ball joint

Will come with custom made RCA’s for the front which I never got around to fitting and standard shocks/springs.

Driveline

Recent oil changes on both diffs, transfer case and gearbox using the best recommended fluids.

Custom H/D clutch with Billet flywheel (firm but good feel)

C’s short shifter

Wheels

Rare Volk GT-P rims 18x10 all around in excellent condition with +12 front and +11 rear (awesome amounts of dish)

Federal 265/35 RSR tyres all around with tonnes of tread left..

I’m sure there is more that I’ve forgotten but you get the idea of how anal I am about the car and how good a package it is. Price is $23k located in Ringwood VIC. Can be contacted on 0415 832 835, viewing of the car will be available after the front bar gets resprayed. No test drives without a deposit in hand! Plates won't come with car.

286333_10150278865571586_619421585_8033170_471104_o_zpsbdb748ac.jpg

For more pics.... http://s99.beta.photobucket.com/user/joe_pezzi/library/32GTR

Woops, forgot to mention that. It's a 1989 model. 1 more year and you can put it on classic reg if that's your thing (reg works out a lot cheaper).

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...