Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I need to route 2 wires from the passenger door into the cabin (addition of central locking).

What's the best way/smartest way of doing this?

There seems to be just this one door connector and it doesn't look tweak friendly

Car is R33 GTSTS2

Thanks!

Edited by Torques

Sorry,

I meant to write the driver side door, not passenger.

To my knowledge there is no 2nd pair which I could use.

Normally there is only that switch which is linked to the door latch.

Now the actuator (from an Almera) fits 100% and includes the switch (which triggers passenger side) but also needs 2 wires for the actuator functionality.

So I need to route 2 wires into the cabin in order to connect it to the alram system.

Sorry for the mixup

.

ah ok. forward of the door boot there is a small grommet. pop the side indicator light out and look back toward the door and it will be visible. bit of twin core jacketed cable throught that and a small cut through the door side of the door harness and you are in.

good to see you worked the actuator out. model changes across countries make things like that hard.

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the input, will get to it in a minute.

(Can't wait to have a proper central locking)

Yes, a Nissan Almera (1995) doorlatch was exactly what I needed.

The actuator fits right in .. works beautifully.

:)

On the left the Skyline locking switch, right the Almera actuator (4 wire)


post-33912-0-17940000-1361009995_thumb.jpg

Edited by Torques

Thanks,

all done now, works very smoothly and without any noise.

It's been a bit of a job since I had to revisit my alarm system wiring which had not been finished until the actuator was installed.

This 'mod' really propelled my car into the 21th century :)

Gone are the days fumbling with that key ..

post-33912-0-29154600-1361376519_thumb.jpg

post-33912-0-10405900-1361376523_thumb.jpg

post-33912-0-88094800-1361376525_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was just driving into work and while on my drive, I went to accelerate and noticed the car would sputter/hesitate and I’d hear a few pops from the exhaust before it started going faster. Then I also noticed that when I push my clutch in, the car would die. This all started happening today. Any ideas?
    • That is a lovely Volvo, just saying. Yes I should have got an 260RS when they were cheap. I do regret now.
    • ^ lots of good points made above. The thing is, "aggressive" or "flush" fitment is relative depending on how much you have been influenced by social media. My starting point is always "look at the Nismo RWD specs". That is where you should start, then start measuring as GTSBoy as sort of mentioned, because every car will be slightly different. My 8.5"+35/9.5+38 will not be "flush" enough for you because you want more "pumped" look, which is why you measure. Tyre sizes and brand/models also make a difference. Some tyres are more chunky/square, some are more rounded. That means you could get away with more aggressive offsets without rubbing. But then it also depends on your ride height. Also depends on how much your car copped damage before being shipped from Japan. So it goes back to measuring your car yourself and determining what can work. Those Nismo specs are used bacause it's a safe spec for standard car (suspension. body) with chunky tyres. But then I put 265/35 wide tyres on R34 GT-R wheels, and currently run 285/30 tyres on 18x10 wheels.
    • Sounds pretty awesome. I recommend creating a new build thread and posting all your goodness in there.
×
×
  • Create New...