Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Having a problem with my R33 series 1 running rich for for 30 secs to a minute every time i start it wether its cold or hot/normal temp.

Ill try give as much detail as possible

car has stock air box,stock exhaust,power fc,550cc injectors,,FMIC,Z32,YJ coilpacks and new set of plugs bcpr6es gap .8 and also tryed bosh platnums 1.1 and stock boost now.

first off i had this car with facefoward plenum and was running sweet with all the stuff above mentioned done but got defected so went back to all stock intake plenum/runners/bov and emissions which was the only thing put back on.

Everytime now i start it just black smoke all the time no matter wat temp its on and does it for awhile then clears up.

mechanic checked fuel pressure/FPR all great perfect...afm been cleaned,panel filter cleaned plugs new,coil packs good but still this happens.

also cleaned aac valve which helped with the hunting up and down.

Thought maybe leaky injector but all these things mentioned was not doing at all with them on with the face foward greddy type plenum.

Mechanic said could be that plenum holes smaller now and has afected its air fuel mixture and making it run rich but its not running all the time rich just as i have said.

What u guys think,might need a tune or something else,any help would be great.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/420796-running-rich-on-every-start-up/
Share on other sites

only three things have been changed,the plenum,stock bov from aftermarket one which is plum back style i had on before and the intercooler pipe throttle body side,thats it.

not to sure if the PFC has post-start enrichment.Full throttle is good but just down low is a lil rough sometimes but the start up everytime is terrible just black and black and clears up after awhile.

maybe someone can tell me some step adjustments on the power FC for what to do for the start up??

Edited by RamR33

did you have to remove the injectors when you swapped plenums? if so, i'd say you have a damaged o-ring on an injector. definitely not something you want to keep driving with, because if it gets worse then you might be up for a new engine (i know a guy who had an o-ring let go on his built s13 and it resulted in a hole in the side of his engine.....)

for the sake of a few dollars for new o-rings i'd be pulling the injectors out and replacing them. possibly even have the injectors professionally cleaned while they are out

The injectors wernt removed but noticed as soon as i took that crap stock exhaust system off it ran 100 times better with my 3inch and less smokey as the tune before that i had with my power fc was made for all aftermarket mods and since putting the exhaust and pod filter back on performance is way smoother and less smokey so most likley the tune is the problem.....

The injectors wernt removed but noticed as soon as i took that crap stock exhaust system off it ran 100 times better with my 3inch and less smokey as the tune before that i had with my power fc was made for all aftermarket mods and since putting the exhaust and pod filter back on performance is way smoother and less smokey so most likley the tune is the problem.....

Oh really?!

Yes it runs heaps better.

The idle seems to run around 200rpm rpm higher now after exhaust was put on so could to with an adjustment but as for black smoke nothing like before ,puff puff puff on start up.

Had a read on here some ppl saying when clearing defects with there moded 33,s there car runs and goes like crap with the stock exhaust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...