Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What i've found is the cleanest engine bays have re-painted engine covers and an actual clean engine bay itself. Usually scrubbed and repainted when the engine is out of the car.

Best basic things to do would be to look at just re-doing any old vacuum lines and clamps that are worn. Give everything within reason a degrease and a clean. Maybe relocate your battery and throw a decent oil cooler/relocation setup and an oil catch can.

If you're willing to go for it, do the rocker and cam cover. The R32 RB26 covers tend to be quite ratty these days (mine certainly are) and are often missing chips of paint. I think the R34 GTR RB26 covers are a sharp colour.

Engine out, respray the engine bay, replace all rubbers and hoses, new bolts and washers with shiny ones, get plenum and cam/timing cover powdercoated, any metal components media blasted or re-plated.

A decent job can be done for under $1000.

That's not a bad price really is there any vids etc how to pull an rb26 out?

Not sure about any vids, but i'd recommend downloading a copy of the R32 GT-R workshop manaul. Given it was sold locally, there's a full english copy available (about 500 pages in a PDF) online. Handy resource to have and will tell you were every bolt/nut/screw it located on your car.

If you havent done it before then only attempt pulling an engine out if you are pretty handy on the tools and have a good system or memory lol

Even with the engine in you can do a lot, do what dave said in terms of hoses etc, maybe get some nice shiny bits and hard pipe kits etc?

Keep it legal though, you dont want to spend all that time getting it right and then get slapped with a defect!

Engine out, respray the engine bay, replace all rubbers and hoses, new bolts and washers with shiny ones, get plenum and cam/timing cover powdercoated, any metal components media blasted or re-plated.

A decent job can be done for under $1000.

can you get the plenum out with out taking the engine out haven't had the best chance to give it a look

Ok,

I would pay attention to the engine covers. Why? Because when you open a bonnet whats the first thing you look at??? Yep, the engine.

Old and worn out oem paint on an R32 GTR looks like sh!t.

I know that you mentioned money is not an issue but in fact its always an issue, some are just better at managing it than others that's all ;)

That aside, here is what I think you could do.

Go to the Autobarn and get some paint stripper - $50 for 4 litres (get your money worth that way)

also purchase some VHT wrinkle plus black / red (red if the car is white) - cost approx $15-$22 depending where you get it (Autobarn is the cheapest) get two cans

Get some all-purpose primer - cost like $13 bucks from Bunnings

Remove your plug and engine cam covers and paint strip them

Clean them up with some degreaser or prep wash and sand where appropriate (if required, I didn't)

Tape up the necessary parts i.e. breather holes, screw holes, engine ornament, etc...(this is the longest bit)

Then on nice hot sunny day - use your VHT wrinkle plus spray can - make sure you follow instructions (must be sprayed in a cross patch pattern i.e. horizontal, vertical and then sideways)

More importantly - buy or borrow a heat gun - set it to 300 deg C immediately after spray painting - once at temperature, apply it to the plug cover and cam covers

It will wrinkle up very quickly and once finished, leave it to dry somewhere dry i.e. in the sunlight for a few days

so going from the boring and grubby engine bay

gtr-044_zps8e5a7b67.jpg

to

image_zpsa2742168.jpg

image_zps189589cb.jpg

this....

besides your time - total approximate cost is $120 (if you don't buy a heat gun)

your choice mate :miner:

I got the top ornament plate powder coated and sand blasted already as I used to work at one cost me $10 for that part I just need to get the rest of the covers off without f**king the timing or anything else lol

Yep, be careful when taking the front cam cover off. I did that once and despite my efforts with markings I still managed to stuff up the timing + screw up the CAS. I think if you take it off you will need a timing light to reset it correctly.

Edited by Ants

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...