Gtr To Gts Front Suspension Conversion (Stagea)

[Run-It-Hard]

So I've gotten to the point where I need to do something about the front suspension on my Stagea.

I'm drifting it, and its a 4WD model (run in 2WD) I went for this model as it was the shape I prefered (Series 1) and it seems finding a RWD model isn't easy, we only happened to get them in the S2 model only too due to only being eligible to import the turbo models.

(FYI RWD Stagea shares the Laurel/S15 platform, so it runs mcpherson strut ... oh how I wish I liked the S2 front when I bought my Stag).

Anyway!

I have a few problems, they are:

Driveshafts need to be in place to keep bearings in knuckles

No aftermarket support for suspension arms (knuckles, tie rods, ends etc) and need to modify
Keeps bending tie rods (stock stagea only runs a 8mm thick tie rod, S14 runs 12mm)

No lock gain to be had
and most importatnly, the upper control arm and arm between the UCA and knuckle hits the chassis.



I've been pondering for a week or so now whether to go Mcpherson or RWD (GTS) double wishbone setup. At the moment Mcpherson just seems way too hard to do without pulling out the engine and modding the engine bay (strut towers etc) to do it properly.

My only hope is to convert to the RWD double wishbone setup found in the R33/R34 GTS series.

Benifets of the conversion:

Saves weight, removes the drive shafts
more aftermarket support for arms

can run a moddified knuckle for more lock

But that still leaves me with the arms hitting the chassis.

So after this whole essay about what I've been thinking about, I'm wondering if its possible/safe to cut and shut (shortern) the arm between the upper control arm and the knuckle.



From what I can work out in my head the shorter the arm the move clearance the suspension would have, compared to a car at the same height with a longer arm.

I haven't seen and can't find any aftermarket upright as I'd assume no one has ever needed to mod/change one before.

Then theres the whole problem of the 4WD cradle, using cast LCAs and all that junk. But I've figured out how to combat most of that in my head, I just need to figure out if its safe to modify the upright. I presume it takes quite a bit of load as apposed to a knuckle or what not?

To anyone that says "should buy a RWD model instead" it's not worth doing that now, I've spent way too much coin, effort and time to get my Stagea where it is. Although if I ever stack it, I'll deffinately get a RWD chassis next.

I'm all ears guys, I know there are some extremely knowledgable people on here and would love to here some advice, opions etc.

Edited March 5, 2013 by Run-It-Hard

[Run-It-Hard]

I've come up with another idea, which is probably safer. Which is to somehow mount the knuckle above the arm rather than below. Though that might pose a change in geometery and how the upright works etc. probably be a mission and hit the arm etc.

Edited March 5, 2013 by Run-It-Hard

[blind_elk]

That's not a McPherson strut, it's a double wishbone, same as all the later Skylines.

[GTSBoy]

He didn't say that he had Mac strut.

[Run-It-Hard]

All good, I've figured out what I can do. I'll post up a conversion process when I get to it.

[Kierin]

Hey Adam,

I’ve read Part III of “The Quest For More”, did you end up getting it all installed in the car with more lock? I’ve just started taking my S1 to the track and looking for more lock, so far it’s pretty standard in the front end apart from coilovers. I’ve seen a kit for the 32/33 from Garage 7 that looks alright but would prefer to swap spindles before installing one of these kits (http://www.garage7.com.au/home/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=2952&category_id=616&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=53 )

Regards,

Kierin