Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My friend has his R32 for sale

Nissan Skyline 1993 R32 GTS-T (Heavily Modified) - Burgundy in colour

GTR R32 Front Spoiler and Grille

GTR Headlights

88 Speed Headlight strobes

Nismo Style rear lip

Takamii Speed T Wing

Simmons FR 17x8 front (235x40x17), 17x9 rear (255x40x17)

Cusco Coilover Height Adjustable Suspension

Cusco Strut Tower Bar

Kakimoto Caster Arms

Adjustable Caster Rods

Nizmo 2 way LSD

R33 GTS-T Front Brakes

GTR Fuel Pump

Blitz Blow Off Valve

Custom Oil Catch Tank

GTR Intercooler

Proceed Computer

HKS GT2510 Ball Bearing Turbo

4 Puck OS Giken Ceramic Clutch

Fibreglass Nismo 400R look a like bonnet

Blitz Boost Gauge

R32 GTR Seats (Front and rear)/ Door Trims/Centre Console and carpets.

Drift button hand brake

Greddy Turbo Timer

Trust gear knob

3" Front Pipe and N1 Exhaust

Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller (4 boost settings)

Kenwood Single Din MD deck

GTR centre console guages (not connected)

Focal Utopia 165 splits

Alpine 12" Sub

Passenger footwell mounted fire extinguisher

Apexi RSM

Pivot Shift Light

Mag wheel colour coded Manufacturer vinyl graphics

Slim line colour coded number plates

Car Last dyno'd made 225kw's at the Wheels @ 1.3 Bar Boost (No cat)

Car import and modified by Japanese Motorsport for street Drag/Drift.

This car not only goes quick in a straight line but is an awesome drift/circuit car

with a few suspension setting adjustments you can go from 1/4 miler to drifter to circuit racer ---- have the best of all 3 styles in the one package

JMS (http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/) predict this car to do 0-100km/ in high 4's to the low 5 second bracket and 1/4 mile time in high 11's - low 12's. Car has NOT been timed in Canberra.

PRICE IS $25000 ono

SMS Jimmy on 0418 663833

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42139-fast-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

will organise some interior pictures --- Please note vehicle also has the gtr skyline cluster with the aussie spec 260 kmph speedo and that the proceed computer and apexi rsm lift the speedlimiter also the timing belt has been changed in the last 5000 kms and that it has a new water pump and it has done about 80,000 kms but will check with wasabi32 as it is his car.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42139-fast-r32-gts-t/#findComment-871184
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry guys, been busy as.

Will get some interior pics tonight.

It has the Nismo 260km/h speedo. this was put into the car at 50,000km's. the new speedo has approx 23,000km's on it. making it around the 73K mark.

Its definately not slow. - Thanks R32_GTS4T!

Will post interior pics tonight/tomorrow.

Also, here is an updated add for the sale:

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Nissan Skyline 1993 R32 GTS-T

MODIFICATIONS:

GTR R32 Front Spoiler and Grille

GTR Headlights

88 Speed Headlight strobes

Nismo Style rear lip

Takamii Speed T Wing

Simmons FR 17x8 front (235x40x17), 17x9 rear (255x40x17)

Cusco Coilover Height Adjustable Suspension

Cusco Strut Tower Bar

Kakimoto Caster Arms

Adjustable Caster Rods

Nizmo 2 way LSD

R33 GTS-T Front Brakes

GTR Fuel Pump

Blitz Blow Off Valve

Custom Oil Catch Tank

GTR Intercooler

Proceed Computer

HKS GT2510 Ball Bearing Turbo

4 Puck OS Giken Ceramic Clutch

Fibreglass Nismo 400R look a like bonnet

Blitz Boost Gauge

Nismo 260km/h speedo

R32 GTR Seats (Front and rear)/ Door Trims/Centre Console and carpets.

Drift button hand brake

Greddy Turbo Timer

Trust gear knob

3" Front Pipe and N1 Exhaust

Blitz Dual SBC Boost Controller (4 boost settings)

Kenwood Single Din MD deck

GTR centre console guages (not connected)

Focal Utopia 165 splits (Worth $1000)

Alpine 12" Sub

Passenger footwell mounted fire extinguisher

Apexi RSM

Pivot Shift Light

Mag wheel colour coded Manufacturer vinyl graphics

Slim line colour coded number plates

Car Last dyno'd made 225kw's at the Wheels @ 1.3 Bar Boost (No cat)

Car imported and modified by Japanese Motorsport for street Drag/Drift.

This car was actually owned by Denzo himself.

When I purchased the car, JMS had replaced the dash cluster with the Nismo 260km/h one in it now. The engine had done 50,000km's prior to the dash going in. The dash currently reads just under the 23,000 mark, to make a rounded up total of 73,000km's.

I have only just replaced the gearbox and not long ago had the water pump replaced. This work was carried out by Tez Automotive for the gearbox and Gombars in Queanbeyan for the water pump.

JMS (http://www.japanesemotorsport.com.au/) predict this car to do 0-100km/ in high 4's to the low 5 second bracket and 1/4 mile time in high 11's - low 12's. Car has NOT been timed in Canberra.

$24,500

Please contact me via email or phone (w) 62198414 or (m) 0418 66 38 33.

[email protected]

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ __ _ _ _ __ _

Car is going in tomorrow to have breaks done. The exhaust has a small hole and air con needs re-gasing. Other than that, car is in top condition.

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42139-fast-r32-gts-t/#findComment-889025
Share on other sites

Haha, that was Danny's GF old car:)

Mine old 32 is in the movie section white one ran 11.3

sorry is a nice car, drove it when it was here in S.A gd luck with the sale and the buyer wont be dissapointed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42139-fast-r32-gts-t/#findComment-895153
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah guys, as the ad states, this car was owned by the King himself, or his GF anyways. Brakes have now been done and a new battery was also put in it.

Buyer definately wont be disappointed :flamed:

JMS did make the bonnet, its actually pictured on their website. Along with the rear nismo copy lip. Its the same car......

Smoothline, do you still want more interior pics? If so let me know and I will get them to you asap. Been busy packing house to move back into old but new house..... dont worry, it all makes sense in the end...... :headspin:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/42139-fast-r32-gts-t/#findComment-910799
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...