Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have used the search feature in regards to VIN decoding, however it doesn't give me the info i'm looking for

Long story short, there is an R34GTR (listed as Vspec) which i was interested in but it's in a different state to where i'm located.

I believe I am allowed to post up the compliance and VIN of this car because it is public knowledge by Australian road authorities

The Australian compliance plate VIN is 6T91MPV9712BRA008 and the car is registered in VIC.

I have also attached the Jap Chassis no and model details on the compliance plate.

2 questions.

1. Almost all imported Skylines I have seen start the Australian VIN with 6U9xxxBNR34xxxx. Why would this VIN be so different? It is registered with VIC roads and can be searched using their free Rego check service

2. On the Jap compliance plate, i thought all BNR34's chassis number were 6 digits. I.E BNR34-123456. This chassis number has 7 digits being 0000710

Nissan Fast does not pick up this VIN either?

Whilst I am being considerate to the seller and trying not to waste his time, I think i am doing nothing wrong by putting these details up in public forum.

Can anyone help?

post-74132-0-02976800-1363138258_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421574-decoding-bnr-vin-model-of-r34gtr/
Share on other sites

The first part can be explained - that new VIN would be correct if it was complied under the old system. The 6U9XXX deal only started with SEVS in 2005.

Secondly, that plate doesn't look legit to me. You mentioned the chassis number having an extra digit which is a fair giveaway, but also, have a look at the condition of the plate compared to the condition of the firewall around it.

Double-checking my R34 encyclopaedia, I reckon someone has scored themselves a blank plate and stamped that themselves. It's a very good stamping job, but it's not a factory one. I'd be curious to see what the chassis number on the firewall is (if it's there).

To answer your question, yes it can be registered anywhere fine, but I wouldn't trust its history as far as I could throw it based on that plate.

True^^

Is this car Sonic Silver in colour?

The paint code "KR4" indicates that it should be.

Geez that VIN Plate is scratched up!

And yes, the rivets that hold the plate to the wall don't seem to be the usual look.

This could be a case of stolen in Japan and recovered in Japan and sold.

Edit: not a stolen and then sold car.

I've had a car in a similar situation. Not a skyline. A soarer though. Had a similar Australian Vin.

Thanks Chef. I've def scratched the idea of looking at the car now.

Terry, yup, car is sonic silver. The car is on carsales for public viewing, so if you do a search for GTR's in the 40-50K range it wil be there :-)

Thanks Chef. I've def scratched the idea of looking at the car now.

Terry, yup, car is sonic silver. The car is on carsales for public viewing, so if you do a search for GTR's in the 40-50K range it wil be there :-)

Saw it. looks pretty neat. Pity about the vin plate.

So I had a poke around Google and I believe i found a VIN plate that is legitimate. Compared the two and just put it together in MSpaint. Something to think about for prospective buyers to look at?

Not sure if I've pointed out the areas of interest correct though

post-74132-0-12818400-1363156181_thumb.jpg

i know that my gtr has had the legitimate VIN on the firewall and another one placed under the front strut bar (the bar between shock absorbers in engine bay). It was quite a nice way to hide it and may be something that people dont notice. Also i believe the tag on the drivers side seatbelt where it bolts to the bottom sill near the door has information about the date the car was manufactured and other car info which you may find useful. Not sure if this is the same for all skylines/gtrs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...