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All items gotta go! Clearing space in and around my house. All items located in Fairfield, can post at buyer expense. Most items negotiable on price, the more you buy the cheaper things get.
Items sold as is and needs to go, offers accepted.

R34

Genuine damaged Nismo/Altia front bumper, repairable - $350

HKS Rear coilovers, damaged - $50

Nismo Front & Rear sway bar - $200

RB25DET Neo Starter Motor - $100

Custom 3" Exhaust & Y Split dump pipe - $200

Driver side window regulator - $80

RB25DET Neo engine cover - $20

GTT Strut brace - $40

GT Strut Brace - $20

Bonnet arm - $20

Spare Tyre - $40

Front radiator support, cut from strut tower - $150

GTT rear subframe/cradle - $100

Manual GTT Diff (center gears unknown, not bothered to open up) - $150

Sedan stock exhaust - $100

Set of 4 door trims - $50

Complete seatbelt set - $150

GTT dash, immaculate condition - $100

Auto tiptronic steering wheel - $50

Lower control arm - $80

Upper Control arm - $50

5 stud hubs - $100 each or $250 for full set of 4

Driver side Window glass - $50

Sedan driver window - $50

Sedan Spoiler - $100

Airbox with snorkel - $100

R33

Front reo bar, cut for FMIC - $50

Bonnet Arm - $20

Rear Sway bar - $20

Spare tyre - $40

Driver Guard - $50

Manual GTS-T Diff (center gears unknown, not bothered to open up) - $150

Auto GTS-T Diff (center gears unknown, not bothered to open up) - $150

Lower control arm - $80

Upper Control arm - $50

GTS-T Brakes set, calipers and rotors - $400

5 stud hubs - $100 each or $250 for full set of 4

Sedan Doors, all 4 - $150

OEM Airbox snorkel - $50

Driver side guard - $150

Snorkel on its own - $50

Motors

R34 RB25DET Neo Complete engine, no turbo no loom, runs fine, approx 101117 KMs - $1250

R33 RB25DET Complete engine, no turbo, no loom, runs fine, approx 125,XXX KMs - $1100

Gearboxes

R32 GTR Gearbox - $400

R33 GTS-T Auto Gearbox - $150

R34 GTT Auto Gearbox - $200

ECU

R34 RB25DET Neo Auto - $100

R33 RB25DET Auto - $100

Free

R34 Boot driver side sub box, GTT ONLY.

Plenty of other parts that I haven't listed, little stuff like sensors, trims, etc, I have plenty, just ask!

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More photos in my Gumtree link in my sig as well, disregard the listed prices and make an offer.

Sweet mate I may have one not sure if it work though, if its sweet ill get back to ya tomorrow arvo, let ya know, cheers

hey ricky by 'set of 4 door trims' did you mean they are from a 4 door, or they are the 4 'door' trims for a coupe? pics please!

hey ricky by 'set of 4 door trims' did you mean they are from a 4 door, or they are the 4 'door' trims for a coupe? pics please!

There from a 4 door mate. Haha sorry to disappoint. I'm still on the hunt for a pair of perfect condition trims for myself.

is the factory airbox just straight bolt on (remove my pod and straight bolt on the airbox?)

Yes, straight bolt on man

hi, do you have a radiator for an r33 auto?

I've got a radiator for a R33 manual, only difference is the ineffective oil cooling pipes at the bottom.

ok thanks Ricky. Was probably a stupid question hahaha. Car currently in the shop no idea when it'll be out, may pick up a few bits and pieces from you once I get it fixed up =(

what price are you after for the radiator?

I've got a radiator for a R33 manual, only difference is the ineffective oil cooling pipes at the bottom.

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  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
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