Jump to content
SAU Community

35Mm Rb Skyline Water Outlet

sr20det510

By sr20det510,
in Fabrication

 Share

Recommended Posts

sr20det510 Enthusiast

sr20det510

Posted
Posted

Hey Crew.

Im currently modifing an RB25 Intake Manifold.

The issue ive discovered is that the metal push in radiator fitting has started to rust inside the manifold and will start leaking.

The manifold is off now and we have modified it substantially to accept RB26 ITB's so we dont really want to have to start with another manifold.

What are my options in replacing the Metal insert?

Are they eay to remove? if anyone has done it before id appreciate some tips.

Im looking at replacing it with a peice of Billet alluminium that has a push on fitting as per the standard item.

Does anyone out there know of an alternative 35mm OD Billet water push on stlye peice thats available off the shelf?

If found this from datsport in SA id have to machine of the 3 bolt mounting plate but it should push in to the RB manifold with a bit of work.

Id prefer not to Weld if can avoid it rather stay with the OEM method of Glue and press fit a new peice.

http://datsport.com/products/images/cooling-outlet-SR20.gif

If anyone has done this before or has some options id appreciate them.

Regards

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/421876-35mm-rb-skyline-water-outlet/
Share on other sites
Mitchee Proficient

Mitchee

Posted
Posted

I had this happen whilst the engine was in the car. I picked up another inlet manifold with a good condition insert for $10 from a wrecker.. Heated the alloy and removed the insert with a pair of multigrips. Then I applied some sealant around it and carefully knocked it into the original manifold with a rubber mallet. Worked fine and has held up for years with no leaks.

Victory Mentor

Victory

Posted
Posted

This is a common Skyline problem for cars that have been in hard water areas.

Unique Autosports in Sydney make a "Chrome Molly Upper Radiator Outlet for the Intake Manifold" for $65. They had so many cars present for service work with this problem that they designed a replacement part (it is on their website). You simple remove the existing unit and replace it with this one.

  • 2 weeks later...
MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

Usually coolant systems on cars have a "sacrificial anode" part that is designed to corrode. I suspect the insert is the sacrificial bit, and if that's the case you should be able to buy the insert separately from Nissan. Chrome moly seems like a bad choice as im pretty sure its less reactive than cast iron, so it cant perform the sacrificial anode function.

On older cars i've had the sacrificial anode is the thermostat housing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Dose's Sometimes DIY and Pay Someone Home & Boat Improvement Thread

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Why are people so insistent on making dirty water?!
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...