Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No, but I am often in this position myself seeing I chew through rear callipers myself for some odd reason.

I'd hit ebay (USA) and search for remanufactured 280zx series 2 callipers:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/AUTOCOM-PSC-Rebuilt-Unloaded-Brake-Caliper-REAR-LEFT-22-00516L-Nissan-280ZX-/251137842443?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a78fb5d0b&_uhb=1#ht_1468wt_1164

They should suit your needs.

i fitted hr31 Aarms to mine converts to inner drum handbrake and allows for easy fitment of r32 onward twin piston calipers. ventilated rotors standard.

if your interested ive got a couple pair of these arms spare complete with brakes and 4bolt shaft type hubs

jon.

Awesome. Thanks very much Drew. I didn't know that the 280zx series 2 calipers are the same. They certainly look the same. Are the piston diameters the same?

The needle rollers on the hand brake adjusting cam have disintegrated on mine.What have you been chewing through on yours?

Jeff

I have a box of rear callipers all in different states of disrepair and found there are a couple of different piston diameter sizes (to my surprise). For the life of me I don't know which calliper has come from which model car. Oddly they all seem to take the same shape brake pad, but according to the bendix website there are some subtle differences: 280zx brake pads have a small metal tab, whereas the R30 stuff is the same shape with no tab. What the tab does (if anything) is beyond me - as the pad with the tab seems to fit the big/small piston callipers anyway.


In short - it seems you can entirely mix and match calliper parts and pads except for the pistons/wheel cylinder kits.


I have no idea what's going on with my calliper's death with. After some time with them on the car there is a scraping sound, and when I grab hold of the calliper there is play in it. You can actually rattle the thing back and forth even though it's firmly bolted to the diff carrier - so maybe I am bending/damaging the two pistons the callipers slides back and forth on. I've replaced discs and pads (and cylinder kits) but still seem to eat the callipers at an unholy rate.

Hi Drew,

I checked out those calipers on ebay. They are the same piston dia as the DR30 at 42mm but they say that the centre to centre dimension of two sliding pins on the ones they have for the 280zx are approx 125mm. The ones off the Dr30 measure 110mm. What do the ones you have measure?

Cheers

Jeff

The busted calliper that I just pulled off the car measures 110mm - they probably came off an r30 hatch.

The set that I just chucked on the car are also stuffed, Ill measure when I remove them, but they are probably also 110mm.

Hey. I'm after some DR30 rear calipers too. Need them to finish my project! It's the last thing on the list. If anyone has a pair please get in touch. Definitely need DR30, not 300ZX/Z31, not R30, not 280ZX...


Cheers, Benny.

04 011 692 65

Thanks for all your answers but I ended up reconditioning my old calipers. I got the original pistons sleeved and got 280zx repair kits which fitted fine. The real problem are the needle roller bearings for the handbrake mechanism. I removed the stuffed needle rollers and made up bronze bushes to replace them. It all seems to work fine.

let us know how the bush goes. I was thinking of going down the same path. not sure over time it might start binding?

other option was i have some z31 rear brakes and was thinking of machining the back out of one and then pressing the bearing out to reuse.

Hey guys. Still looking. Looks like Tokico 5H are the ones I'm after.

I've found one but I can't find another. I'll pay good dollars to find another so it'll be worthwhile...

20130504_121820.jpg

20130504_121811.jpg

The one on the left with the flat bottom is the one I'm after.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I always wondered how you were supposed to buy a set of 24 buckets and somehow magically have every single one of them yield exactly the desired clearance. I would have thought you'd need to assemble a cam with either 12 "sample" or "example" buckets of known top thickness (or a single such sample/example 12 times over!!) measure clearances at every valve, and then do the usual math to work out what the actual "shimness" of each bucket needed to be, before buying the required buckets to make up he thicknesses that you didn't have on hand.
    • I now seem to be limited in power due to my rev limit/hydraulic lifters in my built RB25. I'm looking into converting over to Tomei solid lifters. Question for anyone that has done the conversion. I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  I don't know where I got this idea, as so far I see no mention of this in any of the Tomei documentation. It just states I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • I couldn't agree more. I should have started from the get-go with a NEO or solid bucket conversion. I started looking into converting over to solid lifters yesterday. Now for some reason I was always under the impression that when using the Tomei solid lifter conversion, you would also require new valves (Longer or shorter stems, I can't remember which).  But I see no mention of this on any of the Tomei documentation. It just states that I need the Tomei solid buckets, solid lifter cams and upgraded springs. As my head is already built, all I would need is another set of 1000$ Kelford cams, 500$ buckets and about 4H hours of my time installing and I'm off to the races!?!? There's no way it's that simple, I must be missing something? 
    • BRUH, one of the biggest mistakes of my life..... and i've had plenty ;[)
    • @Murray_Calavera iam just considering options 🙂 of course it is very expensive so that why i ask here 🙂  @joshuaho96 I looked at that GCG hybrid(i remember looking at it few weeks before) So this is "that" hybrid where i send them my turbo and they upgrade the inside to Garrett stuff and then they send it back. It cost around 1200-1300 USD which is FAR cheaper than the HKS and it is what iam looking for(i just do not have experience like this...to send something off to "upgrade" ) @tylink720 that is like 150 USD turbo no? 😄 I dont think i have the "ease on my mind" with this kind of turbo. I just put over 7000k USD to "LINK" up my engine...dont want to blow it up with cheap turbo 😄     EDIT: https://www.cj-motor.com/gcg-turbo-charger-for-nissan-rb20det-rb25det-high?srsltid=AfmBOooVeOZ6CZ6r1AIv5m-KPaa6BvudIPJTY8LW78khkd-gQlsaCht9 I looked at this and it seems ok? It is that CGC hybrid and it costs around 1250 USD (with back shipping). Do any of you have experience with this hybrid on NEO turbo? I quickly look thru the forum/web and it seems very good.
×
×
  • Create New...