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I have just put every aftermarket part I have into one

Please check this for any updates or price drops

Prefer everyone to text message or call

Haltech e11v2 ecu with plug and play loom suit rb

$700

Splitfire coilpacks rb25 series 2

Great condition

$350

R33 white boot with Gtr copy wing looks awesome

$100

G4 rear coilovers great condition

Suit r33 s14 s15

$200

Nismo shocks and springs

Just the fronts

Suit r33 r34 gtst

$200

Hks coilovers suit r33

Height Adjustable and damper

Make a offer

Je forged pistons and 26 rods to suit rb26

86.5mm

Great condition

$500

Acl/Ross forged pistons

Suit rb25det

Good condition apart from a scrap on the under Neath of piston

$200

Autobahn88 Intercooler kit non return flow

Complete kit

Damage to the cooler can get it fixed if someone is interested

$100

Nismo rays lmgt2 wheels

17x9 +38

17x8 +35

federal 595 rsr semi slick tyres on the front

Fit r33 gtst awesome

One front wheel needs repairing will cost maybe 150 to fix

$500

Genuine nismo strut brace with brake stopper

Suit r33

$100

Hks idle stablizer

$50

Autometer boost gauge

52mm

$30

R33 gear and handbrake boots

Leather with blue stitching

Great condition

$30

Ssr 17x9 17x8 multi spoke wheels

With nexen near new tyres

$500

Turbosmart fuel cut defender

$50

Exedy button clutch needs rebuild

$20

Exedy heavy duty clutch organic

Great condition

Suit rb20 rb25 rb26

$150

R33 cat back exhaust 3 inch with jasma tip

$130

Drift oil cap

$20

Turbosmart boost tee

$20

Blitz turbo timer

Great condition

$30

APEXI turbo timer

$30

Fet turbo timer

$20

Hid lights comes with everything

$20

Blitz boost gauge

In bar

Looks awesome

$50

Greddy adapter for radiator hose for temp gauge

$30

Hks pod filter with adapter for air flow meter

$50

R33 front strut brace aftermarket

$40

R33 black aftermarket side skirts need slight repair

$20

0487924497

Gold Coast

Edited by toy515

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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