Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 93
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Holy shite! With a possible 700rwkw (we're talking within kickin' distance of the big 1000rwhp!) who cares if it's legal or not? I just wanna see it get up and boogy :P Awesome stuff Martin, bloody awesome!

Well to give you an idea Matt, we finished off a Crewman today, with some pistons, rods, small valve heads, and a rather big cam 240+ duration, running 11psi through a T Trim, on a stock 5.7l capacity, and it made 496rwkw at 6400rpm. Now factor in over double the boost (from a bigger YSi compressor), more displacement (C5R on an iron block makes 6.0l), decent fuel, much better manifold/heads, twin 4 inch exhaust etc. and you can see where I am angling from. 700rwkw isnt guaranteed, but its quite likely to be on the cards. The best part is that with the crank/rod combo I am running 8500rpm is the hardware ceiling.

Going to run reprogrammed factory management too. Give the old keyboard skills a workout it will!

About as street legal as most other cars on here you might say :sly:

6.0L, 25psi, 8500rpm, jungle juice fuel and enough air in and out to keep a diver on the ocean floor for a decade! That's worth a Big Kev - I'M EXCITED! I'm guessing Damo (Rogue8) is clued in on Tonners progress, yes? I'd love to be there when the tuning takes place.

So what sort of chassis upgrades are in the works? The torque this thing will develop would snap the stock chassis in half wouldn't it?

I have to say, I'm bloody amazed at the tuning scope of an 'edited' ECU. GM have dropped the ball in a few areas, but the ECU certainly wasn't one of them.

Street legal - my car is 100% street legal, dead stock, never had so myuch as a Gtech fitted to it :P

You would have to argue how far they really have dropped the ball Matt. One of our latest discussions over on the dark side revolves around a stock unopened engine manual VU ute (exhaust, filter, tune etc) that just ran 12.3 @ 114mph, Heathcote last Saturday. Thats getting there!

There wont be any secrets in the tuning. Will let you know if you are seriously interested. Real big horsepower cars are generally pretty manageable on the dyno. Just strap em tight, and lay in the boot. Cest la vie.

The factory computer though? Work of art. Makes ANY aftermarket system look like rubbish. Whats it do? Off the top of my head......

Wideband mixture feedback, positive pressure fuel and ignition tables (both high and low octane), programmable outputs (revs vs load vs temp), twin sensor knock retard (programmable attack and decay), long and short term fuel trims, adjustable injector scaling (able to cope with 8 x 1000cc injectors), closed loop idle speed control, twin cooling fan control, programmable traction control inputs, adjutable rev limiter (versus engine temp) for each gear, programmable shift light, decel fuel cutoff control, full auto trans pressure and shift control (should you not have a manual), 300 or so different error reporting levels, snapshot data logging, lean cruise algorithm, catalytic converter overtemp protection......and thats part of it

Best part is you can buy these computers for about $200 from spares shops :P

I agree with you Martin, GM certainly hasn’t dropped the ball from a performance perspective. My dropped the ball comment was more aimed at the piston slap and oil consumption issues that "some" owners have experienced.

12.3 @ 114 is bloody impressive from an unopened LS1. The 12.3 is obviously helped by a damn good suspension and tyre set-up, but the 114mph is amazing!

I am most certainly serious mate. I'd love to see the tuning and power runs take place.

Programmable shift light, data logging and programmable traction control, it sounds like GM had racing in mind when they sat down and started designing the system. And for the grand total of $200! Can it be made to run any engine? :D

I am most certainly serious mate. I'd love to see the tuning and power runs take place.  

me too...pick me pick me :wassup:

hehe could you please add me to your invite list as well martin?

I would love to hear the supercharger whine on this beast :thumbup:

[email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...