Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i think the red lines up with the red, and the blue lines up with the blue...you can tell by using the grid...

However, you are right in that the blue doesnt line up with the red...

As you can also tell, its the stock ECU with speed limiter - cant wait to get that powerfc in to that fix low and mid range 12.5 13 AFR !!

yea i know - not bad for a stock 93 ECU, huh ??.....

Bloody miracle I'd say. :D

I have never seen a standard R33 ECU produce A/F ratios anywhere near that good. Ignoring the speed limiter, are you sure it's a standard ECU?

If that's a stock ECU then I'll be very surprised too. I've also got a 93 ECU and when I had the exact same mods with 1 Bar of boost my AF ratios dipped into the 9s at one point and were generally in the 10s.

There's no chance your dyno operator could have changed the software on the dyno? It is shootout mode though, so this shouldn't affect it.

stock ecu, stock boost...

Knore - i wasnt claiming the dyno figure as i know this is way too high - rather the difference between the two readings...

Based on the AFR's they mustve got confused with either another car reading, or its some kind of mistake..

ill be getting a real boost gauge done soon - ill also get another dyno run and check out the AFR's and see if there is any difference..

otherwise, ive just wasted my cash on a powerfc !! :) :jk:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...