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There is no rebuild. If viscous diff, then the viscous cartridge is gone. It never was any good, but now it is just completely useless. If helical diff, then no rebuild available there either, but also very unlikely that it would stop working, therefore probably viscous.

Do not listen to anyone who tells you about "shimming" the diff as they do not understand what they are telling you to do. I don't care if it "works" because all it is doing is creating a wear surface where no wear surface was intended to be.

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There is no rebuild. If viscous diff, then the viscous cartridge is gone.

Not entirely true, You can rebuild it but is a lot of work for minimal gain. If your curious have a look at post 154 in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/164288-diydiff-shimming-for-r33-gtst/page-8?hl=%20shim

But as above don't shim it, it's dumb and doesn't actually make the LSD part of the diff better. it just puts more pressure on the spider gears in he middle causing it to lock.

If its a street car, just grab yourself an r34 Helical. if skids get a mechanical.

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Not entirely true, You can rebuild it but is a lot of work for minimal gain. If your curious have a look at post 154 in this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/164288-diydiff-shimming-for-r33-gtst/page-8?hl=%20shim

But as above don't shim it, it's dumb and doesn't actually make the LSD part of the diff better. it just puts more pressure on the spider gears in he middle causing it to lock.

If its a street car, just grab yourself an r34 Helical. if skids get a mechanical.

Very impressive job, I wonder how the LSD functioned long term.

That air pocket he spoke of is interesting. My understanding is that the air pocket in viscous couplings is necessary and must be a carefully measured volume, making the process of building them beyond a DIYer.

None the less, if it does the job, it does the job.

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