Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theo ran 13.9 with 206rwkw, and yours would have to have at least 30 odd KW more than mine.

it was a 204Kw power run but its actually only running 200Kw

but yeah I had, airbox opened up with k&n filter, plenum spacer, FMIC, BOV, full custom 3" exhaust, Scotty's dump and wastegate actuator and Dale's 2.5" suction pipe on 16PSI stock turbo and fuel system. (and no brake wire mod cut!!!)

but my tune couldn't pull anymore flow out of the stock turbo.

Here's a noob problem. I've never had an auto before and I can't even work out how to launch properly off the line. I assume it's something like left foot on brake,first gear and revs held at boost but it doesn't seem to work very well?!

Here's a noob problem. I've never had an auto before and I can't even work out how to launch properly off the line. I assume it's something like left foot on brake,first gear and revs held at boost but it doesn't seem to work very well?!

Hey matt, yer its not that easy, you need to be a bit more patient with them just got to find the sweet spot a go :yes:

  • Like 1

Too much rubber layered down by big boy v8's to loose any traction maybe..

As soon as I'm done tuning I'm going straight Down to kwinana motorplex to get a time.. Really hoping under 13 sec(I'm hopeful but) :-P

Goodluck. How much power are you expecting to get 12's? 12's is getting very quick..

hopefully mid 200's but this is just from talking to a few guys but I really don't know as my tuners never delt with m35's.. Just with the mods and running f-con there's no reason as long as I get a good launch I shouldnt break the 12's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good to hear. Hopefully you're happy enough not to notice when driving and just enjoy yourself.
    • I mean, most of us just love cars. Doesnt necessarily have to be a skyline.
    • Did you pick up a manual cluster to remove the position indicator?  (Pretty sure the 34 has the gear position in the cluster, but it's been a while)
    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
×
×
  • Create New...