Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Long time reader first time poster... figured it was time I got myself an account on here.

Live in the UK but often come to Australia to visit the better half's sister (Melbourne) although if it were up to me I'd definately be moving over there and bringing my R32 with me! (Even if I did manage to get a ticket for 103km in a 100km area in a Nissan Micra hire car on the Princes Highway!)

Got a '91 R32 GTR and a Honda S2000 which is my daily driver.

Do however have an ulterior motive for joining in that I need some advice about my rear subframe bushes so will throw up a post about that shortly.

My R32; (apologies for the terrible pic, was taken in the middle of lots of jobs, didn't even have side spats fitted!)

185161_10151063034461966_221322265_n.jpg

Cheers,

Alex

Edited by GhostWKD
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/423782-newbie-r32-gtr-from-the-uk/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...