Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Auto Rear crossmember?
They are 50mm wider than the manual; which is what the Whiteline bar is made for.

Whiteline's Heavy Duty Ball Links cope much better with the extreme angle.

KLC109

KLC109.JPG

I can help you out with these if you're interested.

Cheers, Dale.

Thank you for the quick replies.

I had my mechanic do them, they know their stuff so they would have done it correctly.

I'm going to jack up a corner and see how the angle changes

It's auto daleo, my mechanic and i thought the bar was about 5cm too short, that would explain why haha. I've saved your contact info because i wanted to change the F&R endlinks in a year or two.

Thank you for the quick replies.

I had my mechanic do them, they know their stuff so they would have done it correctly.

I'm going to jack up a corner and see how the angle changes

It's auto daleo, my mechanic and i thought the bar was about 5cm too short, that would explain why haha. I've saved your contact info because i wanted to change the F&R endlinks in a year or two.

Cool, no worries mate. ;)

i'm just about to buy a rear bar myself. Its a series 2 auto rwd.

Is the white line bar the best option? those links don't look the best.

Sorry for thread jack :)

I suppose you could add some spacers and use longer bolts to reduce the angle.

Edited by superben

judging from daleo's post the whiteline bar will fit your rwd perfectly with the links provided.

well its not perfect due to the 50mm difference which is why I asked. I suppose that's what everyone uses and just ignores the angle issue.

well its not perfect due to the 50mm difference which is why I asked. I suppose that's what everyone uses and just ignores the angle issue.

awd cradle is 5cm wider then the rwd. hence no link angle.

I don't know from personal experience, but Daleo is a whiteline seller

http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=NISSAN&model=STAGEA&model_final=STAGEA+WC34+RWD%2FAWD&vehicle=1996-9%2F01

Edited by OS80RN
  • 1 month later...

OK, so I fitted my whiteline sway bar and same issue, too narrow.

It is on a S2 RWD RS

I wasnt happy with the mental angle so I machined up some spacers to sort it.

Also had to slot the holes in the U brackets to be able to get them on.

HEAPS better handling, DO IT PEOPLE!!!

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...