Jump to content
SAU Community

Sticky Parking Brake

zoomzoom

By zoomzoom,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

My parking brake has recently become a bit sticky, as in when you pull the brake release, the pedal retracts very slowly and does not go the whole way by itself. I have to pull it up with my foot the rest of the way.

Ive looked under the dash and sprayed some WD on the moving mechanisms and that hasn't helped, which leads me to wonder if the problem is further down the cable.

Maybe unrelated, but I recently fitted some poly subframe collars, in which I had to lower the subframe which did put some tension on the connecting lines, like the parking brake for example. There was no difference to the parking brake directly afterwards, so maybe not related.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424151-sticky-parking-brake/
Share on other sites
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

I cant help you but my RWD S1 auto had a similar problem. The parking brake would not release.. Could not seem to fix it so now it is disconnected.

Does anybody know how to fix?????????????????

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I pulled off the rear rotors and blew all the dust away with some compressed air, then put some anti seize on where the cable comes enters.

Didn't make a difference, unfortunately.

Will have a look under the dash again to see if anything can be done there.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think Ive ruled out any issues with the cable and rear brakes.

When the pedal sticks, there is still tension on the cable, so there doesnt appear to be resistance in the cable. The springs in the rear brakes seem to be retracting the cable fine.

This leaves the pedal mechanism.

I would really like to avoid having to remove it.

What is the shock absorber type device? Is that purely to soften the movement of the pedal? If so, that may be a problem area. Also the spring may have weakened.

  • 2 months later...
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well after having the pedal seize right up on me, I thought it was definitely going to be a removal job.

To avoid that, I gave the WD40 treatment another go. This time I had to lay down mats, newspaper and towels to stop the WD from getting onto the carpets. Using a bit of PVC tubing attached the can I was able to soak the pedal mechanism from every angle, completely soaking the area until the WD was running off onto the towels. Repeated a few times.

Well f**k me, it worked a treat. It freed the mechanism right up, the pedal now releases fully when you pull the brake release. My only concern is that I did wash off some grease on the pedal, so hopefully I haven't affected any lubrication points, but if I have to add some oil or grease in future its not too much a big deal.

Will report back if I actually ended up ruining the pedal, but so far so good. Beats having a stationary vehicle.

  • 3 weeks later...
webng Experienced

webng

Posted
Posted

I will be trying this on the weekend. Thanks for posting.

Figured out how to "manual" release the brake. Deep under the dash, need a fairly long flat head screwdriver there is a mechanism you can push in that releases the brake. Have had to do this more then once when other people have used the foot brake.

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There could be something like that, but I couldn't see it. Its a very difficult area to work on even if you take off the lower plastic part of the dash. I still don't know how the mechanism actually holds and releases the tension on the cable. I thought spraying lubricants might be disastrous and the brake wouldn't hold at all. Thankfully that wasn't the case.

  • 4 years later...
zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update: this band-aid fix lasted 4.5 years. LOL

Just had to do a reapplication of WD40 over the mechanism again, as it seems to be binding up again with cold weather. I'm still not sure how the release mechanism works, or what's causing it to stick. But considering how much work it is to remove it, I'm not taking it out. Unfortunately, this time the WD40 trick was less effective. I might have to do a few applications.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jayden_l33
      Squeaking clutch/throw out bearing

      By jayden_l33 · Posted

      I am getting the same issue. Did you resolve it? I just got it after installing my new super coppermix and literally the same issue, new fork, new 18mm carrier, release bearing that came with the kit and replicated the exact same sound. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      If you like - I have the STL files so I can email em. There's a couple of gotchas (i.e the holes are not threaded so you might need/will need) to utilize some M3 melt-in threads for some of the points. However if you want to be super accurate, and are willing to remove your calipers and your SHOCKS it's a really good tool. You also might need to scale the part that measures the tyre width a bit wider. It defaults to a 7.5in tyre and I mean who is running that. Luckily with the magic of CAD this is very easy to rescale.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      jeebus. glad you weren't under it while performing the stunt. Also thanks for the link to the wheel measurer, exactly what I needed
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      In the older stuff there were very significant differences 2wd to 4wd, for example Stagea had strut front end for 2wd and double wishbone for 4wd so it was not minor to swap. From poking around the 2wd v37, it *looks* like it might be more possible; some of the parts specifically have "2wd" stamped on them which suggests the platforms are more similar. You'd still want to start with a 4wd half cut to swap stuff from though. I'd suggest if you don't have a tune on the ECU you don't really need one on the trans either. Throttle mapping is in the ECU side (and you can always use a Roar Pedal if you want the throttle to actually respond to your foot), and really if you are happy with the stock power you probably accept the stock trans behaviour too....its all made to be "sporty" not racey.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, updates. I have not washed the car since it came back from Tassie. I've driven it around a bit but not got around to actually sorting it out. I DID raise it because I cracked the rear bar leaving a hotel which was very distressing. Interestingly, the car drives more compliant now that it's raised a fair bit (5mm front, 15mm rear). Also noticed that my FR height was 10mm lower than FL. So that's now sorted out, too. I also bought this and had it printed: https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1576422240/wheel-and-tire-fitment-tool-universal?ref=shop_home_feat_1&dd=1&logging_key=08f604d9fa4cc383550ba985e6ac85cd5cac7fbb%3A1576422240 Now, if I was smart I would have taken my brake calipers off to actually use this correctly but it was evident enough to me that in the region where the caliper was... there was nothing to hit suspension/guard/arm wise. So I'm going with "it'll be fine" after using the tool to hopefully very precisely measure the wheel clearance. Also while doing this, I had the very VERY bad idea of jacking one of the wheels/suspension arms up while the rest of the car was on jack stands. I did this to see how the arm would travel. This all was well and good until the car slid off the stands and went through a fence. So don't do that. Incredibly nobody was hurt and there was only minor damage to the rear bumper as the car didn't have far to slide, and had 3-4 wheels on it. The only damage turned out to be the fence itself which was easy to fix, and a little bit of damage to the fibreglass rear bumper trim. I had already planned to try a touch up paint kit to fix the time I drove into my garage door to see if it'd help in the interim before I get it fixed properly. I used the Dr Colorchip kit after looking online and seeing everyone talking about it. Yes it's made for chips and not huge broken missing pieces and I'll be 500% recommending it for stone chips after using it for stupid things like me. This took about ... 10 minutes and looking at the half assed photo the 30 second job I did on the bumper corner was almost perfect just by using the tiny little brush and painting it in. The sealact stuff to remove over-painting is really useful, so if/when I do it again I'll likely slather the touch up paint well over it and then clean it up with the cleaning solution. The wheels should arrive in a couple of weeks. I am still kinda confident after doing a stupid amount of measuring (and borrowing a set of 18x10.5+15) that they will not fit because I overlooked something, somehow and flew too close to the sun. ALSO R34 GTR guard liners do not fit on a GTT. I bought the undertray brake duct guides and had the wonderful problem of them not fitting my intake, my oil cooler and the liners themselves were even worse. Attempting to fit them won't work in general - You would have to cut them up as another poster mentioned as the bodywork is different on the GTT. At least I can try to resell them. So instead of cutting those up, I cut up my old already-cut-up GTT liners and extended them by using some PP plastic and drilling some 8mm holes for some nissan clips for the 'extra' bit. Because I was happy to cut them I was able to mount them pretty damn forward so I now have some semblance of guard liners, and the brake vents seal the bumper from the bottom. It sort-of-looks like this, to give some idea - If you look at the GTR and then the GTT this is when I realised that I needed to seriously measure as the inside of the rim area is entirely, entirely, entirely different and could not take any internet measurements for granted.   
×
×
  • Create New...