Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Genuine Trust TD06H-25G turbo

With 10ch Greddy 3 bolt turbone housing. Only done dyno work so like new (Can get whatever sized T3 housing off Kando/ebay for $150 if you want to run T3 rather than Greddy 3 bolt type housing)

Great turbo for an RB25 or RB26 or RB30 running single. Will make 20-30rwkws more than a T67-25G with approx 200rpm increase in lag (approximations based on various results seen in friends and other cars)

I had kept this turbo around with a view of trialling it against other turbos but after recent round of testing figure my new engine isnt probably strong enough to handle the power this will make.

Comes with elbow for welding to outlet.

Price: $1600 ono

gallery_462_50_155372.jpggallery_462_50_107117.jpggallery_462_50_77937.jpggallery_462_50_231537.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424399-trust-td06h-25g-10cm/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Will take $1000

Also got a TD06-20g turbo with a 73HTA compressor. Is a tad more responsive than my old TD06-20G and makes more power. Asking $1,000 with a 12cm rear housing or $850 with no turbine housing, (this turbo has done dyno time and about 20kms street driving)

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
    • street use or race track, what hose size and why? what factors change with the hose size options ?   see most comon is an10. when you see most oem external coolers are closer to an12? does high volume oil pump like nitto need an12 or 10 be just fine
    • The rod I was moving left and right you can see looking from the passenger side floor up into the center console.  IMG_8095.mov
×
×
  • Create New...