Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Went to start car this morning and the Hi-Cas light stayed on , tried to pull away and could hardly move the steering wheel - not as tough as no power steering but still too stiff to drive safely .

Over the last month the Hi-as light would flick on and off occasionally , mainly with pot holes and rough road surfaces , on a slow hard right turn the steering wheel would jolt and the Hi-Cas light come on the go off and all was OK .

The rear arms and ball joints are new and fluid level ok , there are no oil patches under car and no leaks anywhere . It was tracked months ago BUT under hard right foot the car wants to pull out of a straight line , and launching it just wants to go sideways .

Any suggestions or knowledge ( links on this site _ have looked but nothing so far )

this is my daily drive and am stuffed till I get it sorted . Cheers

I would rather keep the Hi-Cas as i like it ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424495-gtr-bnr32-hi-cas-issues/
Share on other sites

Under hard right foot, you are probably getting "torque steer", generally caused by uneven length half-shafts. It is probably unrelated to your main problem.

When you say "fluid level ok", which fluid are you talking about - ATTESSA fluid in the RR boot, or P/S fluid. (R32s use the P/S system for HICAS).

You shouldn't have problems as a daily drive, just don't "launch it" and it won't try and step sideways!

to keep it, youre going to be paying a fair bit.

What are your reasons for wanting to keep it?

I would remove and see how that affects it.

I have mine removed, and sometimes get heavy steering due to a fuse that blows.

still havnt worked out the base issue.

getting there ,

defiantly not messing with actual spring ! in steering wheel sensor !!

got a consult on it today , and , the steering angle was all out of line , the steering joint that connects the rack to the column looks new so was possibly replaced in the wrong spline ( Hicas boss Fitted but would not align 100% ) explains why the beast wants to power off into the woods ! , like torque steer but 100 times worse .

a wire in the fuse block had worked its way out of the rear ( no surprise with all the cutting and feeding off of other wires (( all gone now )) pain in the arse ) and was causing an intermittent fuse fault ! ( eventually blowing and leaving the Hicas light on permanently ) this was found as the consult was found to power off !! the Hicas light with its power feed when it was plugged in !
So you could say all faults down to a fuse but tjhere was a bit more behind it .

a 4mm pipe was off the black plastic canister next to the rad ( near side ) .

the steering angle is still left 39 and not zero ( will sort at the weekend )( angle goes up to 500 odd ) but the difference on full 400 is amazing !! could almost take hands of the wheel and boot it < worth the hours just for that !!

to keep it, youre going to be paying a fair bit.

What are your reasons for wanting to keep it?

I would remove and see how that affects it.

I have mine removed, and sometimes get heavy steering due to a fuse that blows.

still havnt worked out the base issue.

I like Hicas , when it works it makes life easier in the bends and you can be a bit more aggressive , besides I dont mind `the feeling` others seem not to like , I have yet to get it onto a track and see what the fuss is about !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...