Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone had a problem with nitrogen leaking or anything I had mine done a month ago and I had a warning light come up so I've had them filled again and it hasn't even been a week and my lights come on again. What do you's think it would be? I hope it's not the tyres they are pretty much new not even 5000kms on them

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/424693-nitrogen-leaking-from-tyres/
Share on other sites

If it's one tyre, a nail or something.

If all tyres are doing it....average temp drop due to winter?, as even nitrogen expands and contracts too due to temperature, just not as much as the usual plain 'air'.

It will be a slow leak. I had the same problem with one of my tyres. If you have runflats it will usually mean a whole new tyre depending on the where the damage is and if the tyre place will be willing to repair it.

Jason, that sounds strange.. What pressures are you running them Cold ? I run mine around 32PSI cold, and i have noticed all the tyres have lost approximately 1psi over the past 7 weeks. (Could be colder climate).. But to lose pressures to the point of Low Pressure on the Dash indicator after a week doesnt sound right, Have you manually checked the tyre pressures to see if the Pressure Monitoring system was right there is a low pressure problem ? If tyre pressures checked via Gauge is OK, you may need the TPMS sensors reset, which i believe is a something you need the Dealer to do ..

I'm going to get it checked tomorrow and when I got my first warning light on I checked had all the tyres checked and most were around 29 and 28 then one of them we 26 and they were pumped to 32psi... I recently had them set to 31 just last week so it will be interesting to see if its the same tyre which was low last time... Also lets say it was a tyre that's damaged am I better off replacing the 2 or just the one?

Jason, unless the tyres are very new, you should always replace Tyres in pairs (Ie: Front Pair or Rear Pair ).. If you dont , you may end up with different grip profiles with a new and worn tyre from left to right, and you also have differing rolling circumferences which may put further strain on the Diffs.

But you should get the Dealer to really check whats going on with the Tyre thats going down before making any changes.. (It could be as simple as a faulty valve)

Yeah I thought so it says in the manual to replace all 4 if any are damaged for even wear I just bought 2 rears and it cost me $1260 delivered to my door not bad but pretty dear for the damage of one screw :(

Nah I have the bridgestones on mine and I looked at getting the dunlops but old mate says they are heaps dearer and thought I may as well stick to the same brand I ordered them from Tempe Tyres the other place quoted me just under $900 each so about $1700 for the pair so I'm saving at least $500. Next time I need tyres I will probably get a full set of the new bridgestones the R2's

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...