Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just put every aftermarket part I have into one

Please check this for any updates or price drops

Prefer everyone to text message or call

R33 Gtr copy front bar

Few cracks but repairable

$80

Nismo shocks and springs

Just the fronts

Suit r33 r34 gtst

$100

Je forged pistons and 26 rods to suit rb26

86.5mm

Great condition

$400 firm

Acl/Ross forged pistons

Suit rb25det

Good condition apart from a scrap on the under Neath of piston

$50

SSR RF FIRRENZE

17x9

17x8

BRAND NEW NEXEN TYRES

Fit r33 gtst awesome

$380

Advanti 17s with tyres

5 spoke look like s15 gt wheels

$350

Brand new rb26 rb20 water pump

$50

18 inch 5 spoke wheels pair only

Great tyres

Great for track

$100

R32 alloy radiator 52mm

$100

Autometer boost gauge

52mm

$30

Autometer exhaust temp gauge with sensor

52mm

$50

Exedy button clutch needs rebuild

$20

Exedy heavy duty clutch organic

Great condition

Suit rb20 rb25 rb26

$150

R32 xforce cat back exhaust with high flow cat

$150

R33 cat back exhaust 3 inch with jasma tip

$130

Turbosmart boost tee

$20

Blitz turbo timer

Great condition

$30

APEXI turbo timer

$30

Blitz boost gauge

In bar

Looks awesome

$50

Hks pod filter with adapter for air flow meter

$40

4 channel amps

Pioneer and kenwood $70

0487924497

Gold Coast

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425892-aftermarket-parts-for-everyone/
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...