Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just put every aftermarket part I have into one

Please check this for any updates or price drops

Prefer everyone to text message or call

R33 Gtr copy front bar

Few cracks but repairable

$80

Nismo shocks and springs

Just the fronts

Suit r33 r34 gtst

$100

Je forged pistons and 26 rods to suit rb26

86.5mm

Great condition

$400 firm

Acl/Ross forged pistons

Suit rb25det

Good condition apart from a scrap on the under Neath of piston

$50

SSR RF FIRRENZE

17x9

17x8

BRAND NEW NEXEN TYRES

Fit r33 gtst awesome

$380

Advanti 17s with tyres

5 spoke look like s15 gt wheels

$350

Brand new rb26 rb20 water pump

$50

18 inch 5 spoke wheels pair only

Great tyres

Great for track

$100

R32 alloy radiator 52mm

$100

Autometer boost gauge

52mm

$30

Autometer exhaust temp gauge with sensor

52mm

$50

Exedy button clutch needs rebuild

$20

Exedy heavy duty clutch organic

Great condition

Suit rb20 rb25 rb26

$150

R32 xforce cat back exhaust with high flow cat

$150

R33 cat back exhaust 3 inch with jasma tip

$130

Turbosmart boost tee

$20

Blitz turbo timer

Great condition

$30

APEXI turbo timer

$30

Blitz boost gauge

In bar

Looks awesome

$50

Hks pod filter with adapter for air flow meter

$40

4 channel amps

Pioneer and kenwood $70

0487924497

Gold Coast

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/425892-aftermarket-parts-for-everyone/
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...