Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have genuine 18 inch Racingharts that are drilled to 5x114.3. These wheels were on my nissan stagea rs four but I now have moved on from them.

Genuine Japanese Racing Harts not cheap copies

They are 18 inch

tyres are 225/40ZR18


wheels have very very slight gutter rash but nothing major or over the top. all centre caps are there and complete.

2 tyres are 95% and 2 are 65%

$600

Contact Dale 0417 277 230


These wheels go for $1000 each brand new with no tyres and not drilled as per example

example: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/18-inch-b...-/221143018444

Pics of Actual wheels gave them a quick dust off as you can see they are still in very good condition

post-44470-0-86195600-1369729601_thumb.jpg

post-44470-0-79673300-1369729610_thumb.jpg

post-44470-0-68097000-1369729627_thumb.jpg

post-44470-0-67152300-1369729636_thumb.jpg

post-44470-0-91183100-1369729644_thumb.jpg

post-44470-0-27935800-1369729654_thumb.jpg

post-44470-0-81997300-1369729668_thumb.jpg

Edited by sleek3

they are 18x8, i dont know what the offset is, i cant read the japanese that is on the sticker. the pic of the wheels on my car is with no spacers so they just bolt straight on and clear the stagea brakes. i have tried them on a mates 260rs and cleared his brembos aswell with no issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...