Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

a bit of fishing line and some 'bug/tar remover' to get rid of the adhesive and you should be fine.

Personally I don't like the debadged look, it makes me think 'dodgy backyard repair job', but each to their own. Certainly better than having badges in the wrong spots as I have seen on some cars.

I had my badges taken off when i had my boot resprayed from a scratch. At first i liked the debadged look but i kinda want the badges on again.

Problem is, im pretty anal about getting the badges back in the right spot and straight. There doesnt seem to be any information in regards to the exact positioning of the badges :ermm:

If you're going to remove the Skyline badge you may as well get rid of the 350GT i don't think the nissan badge and the 350gt badge without the skyline would look good at all. I prefer my car debadged front and rear, only because these are rare cars and not many people know what they are.

I have heard that if you de-bdage the big nissan badge on the boot, it leaves a mark?? Like a outline of the badge....

can anyone confirm this?

Depends on what color the car is, i have personally seen those outlines you talking about but it was on a Red v35 (very prone to fading) but other colors might be a different story.

doesn't bug/tar remover get rid of that residue? when i bought my car the previous owner looked like he literally attacked the rear nissan badge with a screw driver and left a long/deep scratch where it was.. got the boot resprayed the painted removed the other badges for me.

This is how mine looks, dirty with a boot lip too.

This is after a detail, since removing the skyline badging reveals slight indentations where the lettering used to be.

I used fishing line and bug and tar remover that was in a green spray bottle but never again because it slightly stained the paint, another reason why I had the car detailed.

post-105738-0-64659500-1370235619_thumb.png

Edited by Triggs
  • Like 1

doesn't bug/tar remover get rid of that residue? when i bought my car the previous owner looked like he literally attacked the rear nissan badge with a screw driver and left a long/deep scratch where it was.. got the boot resprayed the painted removed the other badges for me.

I'm not talking about the glue residue, what I'm talking about is the slight indents the "NISSAN" badge will leave after removal.........

does anyone else have this issue after they debadged???

This is how mine looks, dirty with a boot lip too.

This is after a detail, since removing the skyline badging reveals slight indentations where the lettering used to be.

I used fishing line and bug and tar remover that was in a green spray bottle but never again because it slightly stained the paint, another reason why I had the car detailed.

You can't really see it in the photo...so I guess a cut and polish helped you remove the indentations?

does it really leave 'indentations'? or is it just an outline because that part of the paint hasn't seen the sun over the last 10 years?

I wouldn't have thought Nissan would 'indent' the panel for the badges?

I definitely think it looks much cleaner without the skyline wording attached to the boot.

I will attempt to give it ago on a v36.

Anyone done one on a v36?

My V36 is debadged, both the nissan and skyline badges are gone.

292497_10151482112449912_314936203_n.jpg

Got mine off with a heat gun on very low to warm up the glue, then rubbing in small circles with a white cloth and some eucalyptus oil. (I stress white cloth as I used a green microfiber first and it actually transferred color into the paint - had to cut n polish it out with some pretty aggressive compound).

post-22161-13703388815778_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...