Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I'm from the ACT and am looking to buy a vehicle that is currently in Sydney.

I plan to register it in NSW instead of ACT though because of the problems of passing a roadworthy here.

Now the current car I'm buying has been unregistered for 3 months, the buyer said he can supply a Blue slip or register it for me.

Which is the better option, him registering it or getting the Blue slip and doing it myself?

If I do choose to register it myself, will a Blue slip be all I need?

If he register's it for me will there be any documentation/blue/pink slips I will need to transfer it into my name?

Also, when registration time comes around again will another Blue/Pink slip be required?

I can't really figure out NSW registration properly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/426564-nsw-registration-unreg-vehicle/
Share on other sites

Okay sweet - Will the green slip need to also be transferred over too?
Also when registration time comes around again will I have to get a Blue/Pink slip to put more rego on it? or is it just as simple as adding more?

Does anybody know the price of a transfer of registration also?


Greenslip = 3rd party compulsory insurance ( this is minimum insurance that is required every time you renew the registration ) if yearly every year
Pink slip ( is a safety check done by a qualified mechanic every time the registration is renewed)

Blue slip ( is a safety check that is more detailed than the pink slip as it is done when the car has not been registered in the last 3 months , if the car is an import or transfer from another state, Basicaly its a pink slip that is more full on as the car would be unregistered and it needs to be deemed safe for roads

registration depends on the model, type , weight of the car so the NSW RTA (roads and trafic authority ) or as they are now known the RMS (Roads and Maritime Services) will have a record of all those details and together with the blue slip or pink will calculate a registration fee

to transfer registration you will need to pay a fee at the RTA (RMS) all these details should be on the RTA website
http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/index.html

PS once the registration expired you will need to pay for Green slip again and then get a pink slip form a Mechanic registered on the NSW system and finaly re register it at the RTA (you may need an address here stating that you live in NSW)

pink slip is the yearly rego inspection.

it must be done at an authorised inspection station(most mechanical workshops).

the rego transfer(last I looked) was 25, plus 3 for every hundred of the price.

eg, 1000 would be 25 plus 10x3, so 55.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The team at OBD2 Australia are pretty good, shoot them an email and ask them. I've dealt with them before for work stuff. I'd be shocked if it didn't work, so long as Consult can activate the ABS. But you might need to use KLine for it which would be the stopper, as I don't think that piece does KLine comms.
    • Yeah and hence my ghetto way of slamming the brakes, get the ABS to cycle, rebleed seems to be a sensible workaround.
    • Hey! Happy to help. Nothing inherently wrong with the adapter, it's more so with Brett Collins himself. He gave me a lot of incorrect information when I was in contact with him and was extremely rude when I challenged him. He stated I could not use any aftermarket twin plate clutches except for his own, not to use the dush shield, bla bla bla and it was all BS.  Collins stated to cut roughly 14mm's off the housing, I took off 15mm to make room for the dust shield. I would confirm with whatever adapter manufacturer you're using. 
    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
×
×
  • Create New...