Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys been chasing the reason the ps has been heavy for a while and its just occured to me that its a non hicas motor and loom and the car was originally hicas so the solenoid on the rack is unpluged caz there is no plug to plug it in, can I tap into the hicas ecu and wire it up to fix the steering or is there another way around or thing to do ?

If you want it to work properly, then yes, you need to put in wiring equivalent to the original HICAS wires in the old loom. There is a way to bodge it so that you have feather light steering all the time (which is just to give 12v and earth to the solenoid all the time) but that's a bit shit, and I wouldn't do it.

You're going to need the wiring diagram for your car to be able to pick up where the HICAS wiring is currently finishing up in the engine bay. I'd say it's hanging about somewhere near the fusebox, but could be wrong.

It definitely comes from the HICAS computer, but the point is that the wiring that comes from the HICAS box to the front of the car will still be there. You just need to pick it up at whatever loom/body plug it ends at and carry it on to where it goes. Hence why the wiring diagram would be useful.......

  • 3 months later...

well, if anyone is still interested. there's a pink wire that goes to the nolex type or white plug that sits between the fuse box and the washer bottle, that's the switched supply from the hicas module. then the grey connector above it has a straight black one that's the earth in the original loom.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...