Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello folks.

I am in Auckland New Zealand.

I need some help and advice I have a M35 bought second hand two years ago and added an extended warranty it has done 150k. I now have a diagnosed 'stretched' timing chain. The warranty co. (DriveRight via IAG NZ) is claiming this is 'wear and tear' and not covered. however the engine fault light is on, it stutters now as a result and could cause major internal damage if it breaks. Calling Nissan NZ, they say the chains 'shouldn't..but can stretch' and in their opinion it has failed as they should last for the lifetime of the vehicle with regular servicing.

Other Warranty companies (Like Autosure NZ) cover this replacement due to stretch. So in my view the component has failed. However DriveRight say it has not failed...yet!

The clincher of this is that DriveRight now know the part is 'faulty' and will not cover any damage as a result of continuing to drive. I'm stuck. The warranty clearly states this component is covered (Timing chain and Timing chain tensioners)...but we seem to have a disagreement on the interpretation of 'failure'.

Has anyone experienced this?
My bill is estimated to be $2500 to replace chain.

Cheers.

Technically it has not failed, the component is still in tact and has not lost any partial component of its primary construction or warn out to the point that it has failed.

Yes it is warn but it technically has not failed.

Just like a wheel bearing, just because its making a racket does not mean it has failed, it is just at the upper limit of its life span.

A failure would be indicated by a permenant non repairable failure of an integral component.

They are right by saying it is ware and Tare,

But Nissan identified this as a component failure as such.

You could also argue the term failure.

Does that mean complete failure to function OR partial failure to function

Which the latter is true. And you have a supported claim by the manufacturer.

Your dealing with an insurance company, they don't want to pay you.

So you need to be smart with terminology and build yourself a solid case.

I would use the term "failure" as your primary argument, because if it doesn't say complete failure, then it can also partially fail so technically it has failed.

If they are alleging the chain hasn't failed; by their own reasoning, there is no risk in continuing to drive the car.

They cannot play it both ways; it has either failed and requires replacement, or it is fine, and they must accept and repair any damage the chain does if/when it fails catastrophically.

They cannot hold you to ransom with an essentially undriveable vehicle. A catastrophic failure will cost much more than a chain replacement.

F**k them and their bullshit insurance speak.

You could ring Consumer (not sure if you have to be a member) - or "Fair Go" for advice on your rights.

For technical info see Soichi (ST Hytech) or Joe Kyle (Joe's Mechanical Services)- both Nissan experts

i left a message on the other forum, but i've recently replaced a chain also. they do stretch, but this is a 280+ km engine i done. I would class your situation as wear and tear, but then as said if they dont class it to be a failure and they do cover when it does fail they'll be up for a bigger bill to replace the motor than replacing a chain that is 'failing' according to manufacturer's assessment already.

So have you decided to get someone to replace it all now for $2.5k?

What shop is it in? Sounds like a lot of money. If you're not already there try and get a price on the phone from Soichi and Joe.

I need to make a call tomorrow morning on asking the mechanics to proceed with the replacement. Going to talk to the insurer one more.time now with my new information

Thanks all

a good mechanic who know's his way around a stagea, (most wont because they dont need this replacement done often) should be able to do the replacement in a full day. I used to work at nissan and got my parts at cost which was just over $700, retail was about $1k. The fluids need to be replaced, 5l of oil and coolant, you might as well get them to do a oil filter as well. And then the labour factor. So 2.5K is a bit but wouldnt say its to far off the right figure.

The small cam chains will require a lot of work to replace I think, as the cams may need to be removed... I would get them to replace the chain and guides only if that's what they diagnosed.

What were the symptoms, noisy chain slap?

What engine are we talking about?

The water pump can be easily changed without dropping the front of the engine, don't bother doing it now if it's still working.

I didnt do the secondary chains. They have tensioners to take up the slack and the chains are short enough that any wear would not cause any stretch issues like the primary.

I replaced my water pump while I was in there cause of the high k's. It was starting to show a bit of play and bearing noise. But if yous is fine I'd leave it in there, like what Scotty said.

Hello there,

well I thought I would give those interested a bit of an update.

After some extensive negotiations with the warrant company they have conceded that the chain (in my case) has FAILED.

This is excellent news as it means they are willing to front for the repair.

Still excluded in their view were the chain guides - as they thought they could be reused. I decided to still replace them.

So a lesson here for anyone reading in a similar position is...do not accept the first DECLINE or NO.

While the chains may have some 'wear' over the lifetime of an engine....they should not cause the engine to FAIL (In my case camshaft sensor fault and Stuttering engine, particularly on hills)

I appreciate your tips and advice and now have a puuuuuring Stagea again.

Cheers

Make sure they change the guides, especially the tensioner one. (known failure point as the plastic guide plate becomes brittle.)

I would say this may be the main cause of your issues, or perhaps the tensioner. If the chain has indeed 'stretched' or worn beyond what the tensioner can take the slack of, then I would be checking the oil feed squirters to the chain aren't blocked.

Hello there,

well I thought I would give those interested a bit of an update.

After some extensive negotiations with the warrant company they have conceded that the chain (in my case) has FAILED.

This is excellent news as it means they are willing to front for the repair.

Still excluded in their view were the chain guides - as they thought they could be reused. I decided to still replace them.

So a lesson here for anyone reading in a similar position is...do not accept the first DECLINE or NO.

While the chains may have some 'wear' over the lifetime of an engine....they should not cause the engine to FAIL (In my case camshaft sensor fault and Stuttering engine, particularly on hills)

I appreciate your tips and advice and now have a puuuuuring Stagea again.

Cheers

Look, I think NO is always the standard first response from these 3rd party warranty suppliers.

It's always worth fighting! If their initial response is NO; what's the worst that could happen?

Good to hear you stuck to your guns & got what you paid for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...