Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just keep your cool and speak nicely to the officer, chances are they will return the favour.

"Good Evening Officer"

"Are you aware you were doing 11km/h over the speed limit back there sir"

"I was unaware I was speeding officer, to my knowledge i was abiding by the law travelling at the speed limit. Do you have a radar reading I could see?"

..... and take it from there I guess.

Actually a police officer no longer has to "show you" his radar speed reading, that law changed end of 2003. Basically the whole law works on a trust thing, they pin you but dont have to back up anything with evidence, basically what they say goes and you can't fight it (speeding, defects, blah, etc)

"Just don't speed" :D Geez fellas, a bit above that aren't we?

Basically, if you get pulled over, be polite, but don't admit to anything. If you're asked "do you know why I pulled you over", you can either say "no, sorry" or "RBT?" or something like that, but don't say "yeah, it was for ten over... oh, and the donuts I did on Smith St" :D If they do decide to give you a ticket and you were in the wrong, deal with it and remain polite. If you did nothing wrong, take the ticket, mention that you will be contesting it for x reasons, eg if you sped up to avoid a truck, make SURE you mention the truck to the officer. If it goes to court and you suddenly come up with these reasons that weren't mentioned at the scene, you're much less likely to be let off.

The guys here are correct when they say the police don't have to prove you did anything wrong. Gone are the days of "innocent until proven guilty", these days if the police SUSPECT you of breaking the law, they can book you and then the onus is on you to prove that you didn't, or in the case of a defect, to show them your car after you have "fixed" the non-existent defect.

Yuu can get done for speeding by any cop with or without a radar. If you take it to court, you have a chance of getting off. But it will be your word against his. If you know you were speeding and the cop knows it, then I would say forget about fighting it in court unless you can pull some really dodgy shit (fake witnesses, a $1000/hour lawyer, etc). Because if the cop is honest and has a good record of winning traffic violation cases, then you will most likely lose and get stuck with a bigger fine/court costs. But if the cop is a dodgy pr*ck and has pulled fake tickets before, then the judge will see that he's lost a lot of these before and give your story more credibility. But don't count on this.

Got caught having a run with a commondoor the other week.

Cop: "Can u explain why that was neccessary back on ultimo rd?"

me: "Why wat do u mean officer?"

Cop: "How fast do u think u were goin back there?"

me: "About 60 officer i think"

Cop: "Bullshit son u were going like a bat out of hell!"

me: "No way officer, i was only in 2nd gear"

hahaha Only got a lecture that time.

and when i got caught doing 120 or so in a 60 zone

Cop: "wat do u think the speed limit is here?"

me: "60 i think officer"

Cop: "and how fast were u going?"

me: "about 60 officer"

lolol He only got me for 15 and under.

Speeding is bad people! mmmmkay!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...