Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

...and learn nothing? Thats how you get through life is it? Just never done it on anything post 1977.. something tells me procedures may have changed 30 years on. Not afraid to just give it a go but anything to make a job easier is worth asking about. I have no doubt you have the knowledge but no need to be so arrogant about it. Didnt know forums had a Dont know, don't ask, dont try policy

Edited by c34Florry

Changing plugs is heaps easy. If you need pictures you probably shouldn't be actually doing it.

a mate and this thread taught me to change the plugs in my rb,

everyones at a different point on a learning curve, you at one point didnt know how to either so no need to be a wank about it.

nevertheless i use bcpres-11 gapped at 1.1mm

works plenty fine for me and actually fixed a misfire issue so yeah, happy hunting!

  • 1 month later...

When i removed the plastic cover covering the loom and plugs, the seal around the plastic cover was really brital and broke off, i assume its for sealing off any water intake so next question is has anybody had this same issues and how did you replace it. Also th metal peice that hold the ports for the coils to plug into was broken? Where the fourth screw belongs i dunno if its supposed to be like that or no? Also just thought id add that th plugs i removed were NGK R- PFR5G-11 a bit different i thought.

Cheers if anyone can help

Heres a pic of the metal part that is broken

post-135993-0-14006900-1411201518_thumb.jpg

Edited by adamRB
  • Like 1

yeh, the sides of my valleycover were really brittle the first time i changed my plugs, and broke off. Not an issue though, and as previously said, just dont go about pouring water over your engine lol.

Never took the metal bit out that held the coils:\ didn't even know there was one lol. Arent the coils just screwed down with 2 screws?

Also, as said, use a torque wrench to prevent threading lol. I slightly threaded one of mine, not causing any issues but really careful now when i change em (i still dont use a torque wrench oops)

  • 3 years later...

torque settings for spark plugs in an alloy head should be no more than  23NM maximum, when brand new plug this will give proper crush gasket "squish" and ensure a good seal without damage to the plug or the head.

this torque setting doesn't seem like much but a preset plug tool can be purchased through specialist suppliers that sell to motorcycle mechanics and or speedway enthusiasts, i have a KINCHROME branded one for my 2 stroke race bikes and it has saved me a fortune in replacing cnc machined heads from being stripped when they are over $2500 per cylinder head and you have 4!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mixing things up - installed some leather recaros to match the leather seat covered rear seats. Interior looks pretty schmick now except for some slight wear on the steering wheel which I will monitor and address if it becomes worse or actually noticeable!  
    • Didnt realise RB's had more then 1 head.
    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
×
×
  • Create New...