Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

...and learn nothing? Thats how you get through life is it? Just never done it on anything post 1977.. something tells me procedures may have changed 30 years on. Not afraid to just give it a go but anything to make a job easier is worth asking about. I have no doubt you have the knowledge but no need to be so arrogant about it. Didnt know forums had a Dont know, don't ask, dont try policy

Edited by c34Florry

Changing plugs is heaps easy. If you need pictures you probably shouldn't be actually doing it.

a mate and this thread taught me to change the plugs in my rb,

everyones at a different point on a learning curve, you at one point didnt know how to either so no need to be a wank about it.

nevertheless i use bcpres-11 gapped at 1.1mm

works plenty fine for me and actually fixed a misfire issue so yeah, happy hunting!

  • 1 month later...

When i removed the plastic cover covering the loom and plugs, the seal around the plastic cover was really brital and broke off, i assume its for sealing off any water intake so next question is has anybody had this same issues and how did you replace it. Also th metal peice that hold the ports for the coils to plug into was broken? Where the fourth screw belongs i dunno if its supposed to be like that or no? Also just thought id add that th plugs i removed were NGK R- PFR5G-11 a bit different i thought.

Cheers if anyone can help

Heres a pic of the metal part that is broken

post-135993-0-14006900-1411201518_thumb.jpg

Edited by adamRB
  • Like 1

yeh, the sides of my valleycover were really brittle the first time i changed my plugs, and broke off. Not an issue though, and as previously said, just dont go about pouring water over your engine lol.

Never took the metal bit out that held the coils:\ didn't even know there was one lol. Arent the coils just screwed down with 2 screws?

Also, as said, use a torque wrench to prevent threading lol. I slightly threaded one of mine, not causing any issues but really careful now when i change em (i still dont use a torque wrench oops)

  • 3 years later...

torque settings for spark plugs in an alloy head should be no more than  23NM maximum, when brand new plug this will give proper crush gasket "squish" and ensure a good seal without damage to the plug or the head.

this torque setting doesn't seem like much but a preset plug tool can be purchased through specialist suppliers that sell to motorcycle mechanics and or speedway enthusiasts, i have a KINCHROME branded one for my 2 stroke race bikes and it has saved me a fortune in replacing cnc machined heads from being stripped when they are over $2500 per cylinder head and you have 4!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...