Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 years later...
  • 2 months later...

...and learn nothing? Thats how you get through life is it? Just never done it on anything post 1977.. something tells me procedures may have changed 30 years on. Not afraid to just give it a go but anything to make a job easier is worth asking about. I have no doubt you have the knowledge but no need to be so arrogant about it. Didnt know forums had a Dont know, don't ask, dont try policy

Edited by c34Florry

Changing plugs is heaps easy. If you need pictures you probably shouldn't be actually doing it.

a mate and this thread taught me to change the plugs in my rb,

everyones at a different point on a learning curve, you at one point didnt know how to either so no need to be a wank about it.

nevertheless i use bcpres-11 gapped at 1.1mm

works plenty fine for me and actually fixed a misfire issue so yeah, happy hunting!

  • 1 month later...

When i removed the plastic cover covering the loom and plugs, the seal around the plastic cover was really brital and broke off, i assume its for sealing off any water intake so next question is has anybody had this same issues and how did you replace it. Also th metal peice that hold the ports for the coils to plug into was broken? Where the fourth screw belongs i dunno if its supposed to be like that or no? Also just thought id add that th plugs i removed were NGK R- PFR5G-11 a bit different i thought.

Cheers if anyone can help

Heres a pic of the metal part that is broken

post-135993-0-14006900-1411201518_thumb.jpg

Edited by adamRB
  • Like 1

yeh, the sides of my valleycover were really brittle the first time i changed my plugs, and broke off. Not an issue though, and as previously said, just dont go about pouring water over your engine lol.

Never took the metal bit out that held the coils:\ didn't even know there was one lol. Arent the coils just screwed down with 2 screws?

Also, as said, use a torque wrench to prevent threading lol. I slightly threaded one of mine, not causing any issues but really careful now when i change em (i still dont use a torque wrench oops)

  • 3 years later...

torque settings for spark plugs in an alloy head should be no more than  23NM maximum, when brand new plug this will give proper crush gasket "squish" and ensure a good seal without damage to the plug or the head.

this torque setting doesn't seem like much but a preset plug tool can be purchased through specialist suppliers that sell to motorcycle mechanics and or speedway enthusiasts, i have a KINCHROME branded one for my 2 stroke race bikes and it has saved me a fortune in replacing cnc machined heads from being stripped when they are over $2500 per cylinder head and you have 4!

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
    • Yeah, shame. Maybe  driver's carpet is available 🙏. I am waiting for both amayama and nangun to confirm.
×
×
  • Create New...