Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Just a couple quickies about the V35....

I currently have a r33 GTR as my daily and also a track car (r33 gtst).

As much as i love the GTR its a bit over kill for a daily without using it on the track to.

Im considering an early model, manual coupe.

My questions are

- What are the biggest problems that go wrong with the earlier models?

- What specific to the car things would have to be looked at as problem areas?

- What are they genuinly like on fuel / servicing / finding parts to keep maintained?

- Are they a mint to insure?

im not looking for any big mods / speed etc. Just a nice set of rims, an exhaust and away i go....

Any help would be great

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428788-v35-questions/
Share on other sites

I think the earlier models had some issues with door lock actuators and window motors/mechanisms.

All had issues with the CD jamming eventually, which can cost $$ to repair..

Big thing to check pre-purchase is the Odo reading vs the condition of the car. Look for signs the car has done a lot more work than the odo suggests.. but you are probably aware of that since you own an import already.

other than that, just the normal items that would be checked when buying a used car.

I have a 6sp manual which is my daily in light city conditions all the time, and I obtain around 11.0L/100km in winter or about 11.5L./100km in summer (heavy AC use).

Most mechanical parts are the same as the 350Z, so they aren't too hard to source.

I'm in North Qld, and my insurance is around $750 per year, inlcuding glass cover, with NRMA. But I am 38, with a clean accident, insurance and police/traffic history.

Edited by sonicii
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428788-v35-questions/#findComment-6931493
Share on other sites

My experience is pretty similar to sonicii's - my economy isn't as good but that's because Townsville is more of a country town than Adelaide:) - generally around 13 - 15 l/100k around the city depending on traffic & my foot, and less than 10 on the highway. I use mine as both a daily driver & for some low-end motorsport stuff, and am very happy with it.

I've had one door solenoid fail, no issue with window motors yet. Parts are easy to get - most mechanical bits are the same as 350Z, and you can get anything you want from the US. I do my own servicing & cost is quite low, even using Mobil 1 oil.

Insurance for me is ok but I'm older than sonicii, (without a clean record though).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428788-v35-questions/#findComment-6931518
Share on other sites

I have an auto, average about 12-15l / 100km depending on traffic and my foot ^^, servicing is not expensive. exterior parts are quite dear, mechanical parts are same as 350z so its pretty much local price. Different between 03 and 05 models are mainly just different trim of interior (05 slightly better looking imo) with different cluster (05 better again imo). If there is anything else to add, pls feel free, everyone, to jump in :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428788-v35-questions/#findComment-6931600
Share on other sites

and also what are the differances between the ones badge infinty and the ones badges skyline?

These cars were sold as 'Infiniti' in North America, similar to how Honda rebadge as Acura.

It's unlikely that someone has imported their car from there & converted it to RHD.

Some people prefer to rebadge to the Infiniti logo. Many people don't see the point in this (as the v35 is already an exotic import) - however some people prefer this though & others like to debadge.This is off topic though.

If you want to know the difference in parts between the Infiniti G35 & Skyline 350GT there are a few threads (either here or on G35 driver.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428788-v35-questions/#findComment-6931612
Share on other sites

Cheers guys.

Also was there much difference between the different models?

ie the 2003s vs 2005-7s etc?

The biggest difference with the 6sp manual is the upgraded gearbox (CD009). The earlier units had weak synchros and 3rd and 5th seemed to be the first to go. Some have also suggested the CD009 is stronger.

I guess they upgraded the door lock actuators and window motors, as they don't seem to be a problem on the Series2/3.

I think most other things are cosmetic, like the centre console and door trims. The front bumper is also different. Tail lights are different on the sedan, not sure about the coupe?? Option of keyless entry/ignition (smartkey)

Series 3 (06-07) also got projector headlights.

I am sure someone else can think of a few other things!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/428788-v35-questions/#findComment-6931658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...