Jump to content
SAU Community

Cams Legal/motorsports Kill Switch Install (R33)

Mr. Untouchable
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, just looking to clear up a few things. the ye olde search fuction has failed me. lots of info of anti theft set ups but looking for motorsports/Cams legal setup

I'm looking to install a kill switch, obviously.

i want the most simple setup i can get away with, what do i need to be cutting? its a 33 so battery is still in the boot, do i run a switch in the engine bay in the pos cable off the alternator and run one pull cable to the scuttle panel infront of the drivers A pillar and a second cable into the car mounted to the cage or somwhere so its able to be pulled from outside and inside?? should i be cutting from the battery instead? the kill switch i looked at is a grayston unit with the extra pins and resistor etc, do i have to cut the ign out aswell?

i could of sworn i saw a install on here yonks ago by maybe (duncan)?? it looked as tho the battery was in the boot, the pos cables were run up to behind the handbrake area to a plastic jaycar spec box to the kill switch the back to the battery. maybe i dreamt it up

any help greatly appreciated, cheers

Burgz32 Community Regular

Burgz32

Posted
Posted

my 32 has had battery moved into the boot, positive cable is run through the cabin via the battery switch,

and the auto elec used the alternator warning light to stop the car when the switch is turned off.

the alternator warning light is what excites it to charge, so if it's switched off it kills the car, only drama is it

can also kill the alternator..

Cheers

byebye Community Regular

byebye

Posted
Posted

Kill switch needs to cut the positive battery lead and the positive feed to the alternator, doesn't have to cut the ignition separately. Cutting the alternator warning light wire will only stop the alternator from exciting it won't stop it from charging while driving.

Burgz32 Community Regular

Burgz32

Posted
Posted

Kill switch needs to cut the positive battery lead and the positive feed to the alternator, doesn't have to cut the ignition separately. Cutting the alternator warning light wire will only stop the alternator from exciting it won't stop it from charging while driving.

It did on my car, even had to wire the warning light to my digital dash, because the alternator would not charge without it,

no charge from the alt + cut battery power equals car wont run..

byebye Community Regular

byebye

Posted
Posted

It did on my car, even had to wire the warning light to my digital dash, because the alternator would not charge without it,

no charge from the alt + cut battery power equals car wont run..

Unusual, most of the time you can get the alternator to kick in by revving it hard enough even without the globe if it hasn't been sitting for too long and has held some residual magnetism. I would still recommend doing it with the actual positive feed to the alternator.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yeah that was on Neil's race car (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341836-neils-r33-gts-t-build/) It was run that way to retain the standard undercar main positive to the starter and front, so basically the + terminal runs to the switch near the seat, and then back to the boot. There are shorter was to cut it if necessary. It uses a dual pole switch to cut both the main battery and the main ignition (via a big relay).

I've used a similar cut off in my race car (ie relay to cut ignition) but I'm not really happy with it in either car because the relay will eventually drain the battery unless the kill switch is pulled.

I'd love to hear a better way to do it without hacking up factory looms too much.....without the ignition relay the alternator obviously keeps the car running even if the battery is isolated. Has Damo or someone else knowledgeable got an idea?

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

BTW if I was doing a new car now I would just use 2 electric switches killing both legs of a relay (one +, one -). Easy to run the extra wires and no need to run full power all over the car. A switch like this would be appropriate for the external kill:



http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0786&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=978#1


Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers Duncan. Good to know I didn't dream it up. Burgz man and byebye (Ian?) I'm more confused now, taa. Lol who would of thought it would be so hard. SO. I can't just do what you have Duncan, run the positive cable off the battery, up the a reachable spot, to a switch, then back to the fuse box thingy in the boot, then run the ignition wire out if the ecu loom, up to the switch, then back into the loom so I'm cutting battery & ignition? Will this stop th car. Also, thinking out loud, I'm not going to be turning the car off this way unless I'm stacked and or upside down. I'll only ever be pulling the switch while the car is off to stop the battery going flat, so worrying about alternator damage doesn't worry me as that will be the least of my issues if it needs to be pulled whilst running. Question is does the car stop with ignition wire cut and battery positive cable cut? Where does this resistor come in that comes with the FIA spec switch? Sorry if it all sounds retarded. I'm good at other stuff, I'm good at dents. And paint. But bad at wires

DJRIFT Veteran

DJRIFT

Posted
Posted

I did nowelsy 33. Was very easy and could be made to look stock. I will post up some details when I get half a minute.

I've also done r33 gtrs with electric isolation switches rather than the normal key type.

Mr. Untouchable Experienced

Mr. Untouchable

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did nowelsy 33. Was very easy and could be made to look stock. I will post up some details when I get half a minute.

I've also done r33 gtrs with electric isolation switches rather than the normal key type.

rightio, cheers. Appreciated
  • 2 weeks later...
JZP Proficient

JZP

Posted
Posted

Bit late in reply but if you're just after a switch to stop the battery dying, then switch the negative instead of running active wires thru the car.

Did that in my 33. No need for relays etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Manur33
      Rb25det coil loom wire identification

      By Manur33 · Posted

      Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • davemoto63
      Stagea choice's which model??

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • davemoto63
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By davemoto63 · Posted

      Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...