Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just putting it out there, I want to sell my Honda Accord V6 CG1 1998 daily, that ugly Honda Grey colour.

It has around 205 000km on the car/body but the original cluster fuarked up (I still have it) but it has another cluster that works I bought off eBay with 240 000 km. I have all the Pink/White Slips and RTA records for proof that's not some dodgy re-programmed dash or another cluster I bought.

I have most of the receipts, log book, spare keys/remotes and usually service this car every 5000 to 7500 kms or whenever I'm bothered. Always just use HX7 oil, cheap does the job as it's not some performance car.

I've changed the O2 sensor, bashed out the collapsed cat, installed an auto trans cooler, put 2x Kumho KH19 tyres up front and installed RDA brake pads

Car has 16" Accord Euro Rims (because they look cooler LOL) also has decent Precision Kevlar 6.5" Coaxials

Stacker, stereo, alarm, power shit all work.

Great roundabout, has some decent poke with a 3.0L V6 and gearbox isn't that raped like other V6 Accords. Most other V6 CGs will have a slipping box.

Anyways I'm after $3.7k for it, has rego until September, 2013.

I'm not putting any real effort into this ad, because if someone needs a roundabout, this is a roundabout. I'll post up some photos soon. Also I'm the 3rd owner, and the 2nd owner being my female cousin in her late 40s.

Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

Price: $3.7k ono

Contact: PM or Reply here

Cheers,

Johnny

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...