Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Over the weekend I have noticed an unusual sound from the rear passenger side wheel which i suspected might be the bearing. Over the last few days it has got worse.

So I took the wheel off and it turns out that it is the wheel bearing as there is a little bit of play when moving the top and bottom of wheel back and forward.

Just wondering how hard of a job is it to replace the bearing as I understand that it is held in by four bolts and it is not pressed in.

I do not have any fancy tools so if I was to attack the job, would I managed to get it off and replaced?

Thanks for any advice in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/429549-r34-rear-wheel-bearing/
Share on other sites

Taking the bearing out is easy but then you have to remove the bearing from the spline thats the hard part, youll need to make a few special tools to pull it off. Other problem you run in to is they seprate into 2 pieces when trying to press it off the spline and your left with half still on.

Putting tge new one onto the spline is easy enough if u have a press.

OK thank you for the advice.

This is the one which I have just ordered.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/360701961813?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I thought that you have to just unscrew the bolts off the back of it! I did not think that you needed to press or unpress anything!

I think I might just get a mechanic to do the job as I don't have any specialist tools!

So looks like this is the wrong bearing. Got it to the garage and they told me that it was missing the top mount for the hand break. After looking around they managed to get one in however once it was all bolted on they realized that the shaft would not fit as it was 3mm to small!

I had no idea that the there different sizes!

Can anyone help me with this as I can not find the correct bearing for my car?

So looks like this is the wrong bearing. Got it to the garage and they told me that it was missing the top mount for the hand break. After looking around they managed to get one in however once it was all bolted on they realized that the shaft would not fit as it was 3mm to small!

I had no idea that the there different sizes!

Can anyone help me with this as I can not find the correct bearing for my car?

Hey mate, hopefully im not too late on this one.

R34 GT and GTT's are different..

GTT's run the GTR rear hubs and GT/V's run the S13-15 R32-R33 non GTR hubs, the one's you bought off eBay will fit any S and R chassis minus the GTR's and a 34GTT's.. the one you would need is in the link below, its what Just Jap supply but you can see the difference.

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19774&cat=375&page=1

I hope this helps as most listings for rear wheel bearings miss this very vital piece of info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...