Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to be silly ! But are you reading the boost of the ome gauge ?

I put a blitz return flow fmic and a 3inch JJR bell mouth on with a boost controller. It would spike to 14psi then it would drop down to maybe 12 11 psi.

I ran that for a year and it was all sweet !

Many would advise not run more that 10 psi !

@gts boy i was planin to put on a ebc and boost it upto 10 psi(had a drive just now).since its almost there should i go ahead with that mod?will runin it 12 sometimes be too risky?

my mods are full 3 inch xforce varex with split dump and k&n drop in filter thts it.

I wouldn't buy an EBC to raise the boost 1/2 a psi!! Not unless you can get one super cheap second hand. The only benefit you will get from fitting ANY boost controller at this point will be to keep the wastegate closed as it is coming on bost, which will make it feel MUCH faster even if it doesn't actually have any more total power up top.

12 psi is not risky at all. If it spikes up there every now and then (or realistically, even every time it comes on boost) you're not going to damage anything. The turbo will be fine - it won't shit itself at 12 psi any more than it would at 10. Sure, it could shit itself, but they're like playing Russian roulette anyway. The ECUs on R34s are a lot less emo than on R33s. They still tend to get well rich and retarded, and if you try to run 12 psi boost all the way to the top end then it might start to feel a bit ragged and slow. I have recent posts (in the last week or so) where I describe setting up my boost controller on my Neo and what it felt like at various boost levels. My physical mods are similar to yours. Good exhaust, FMIC, standard R32 airbox but opened up at the inlet, Metal turbo intake. Meaning that your ECU's thresholds of emoness should be similar to mine.

You need to Nistune your ECU, get the turbo highflowed, get some injectors, a fuel pump and a Z32 and tune it up towards 250 rwkW to get any better results than where you are now. A tune on the standard ECU and fuel system (maybe upgrade the pump for safety) will nett up to 210-220rwkW on a Neo, which is pretty good, but you keep the risk of the turbo going poo.

Nistune prices? See the Nistune website perhaps. It really is that easy.

Also, I am tempted to send you to lmgtfy.com for my recent post. I will have to search for it. If I have to search for it, then you could just as easily seacrh for posts by GTSBoy with the term "boost controller" or similar. Like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/429587-720-denso-top-feed-from-rb26-fit-rb25-neo/?view=findpost&p=6952094

Nistune prices? See the Nistune website perhaps. It really is that easy.

Also, I am tempted to send you to lmgtfy.com for my recent post. I will have to search for it. If I have to search for it, then you could just as easily seacrh for posts by GTSBoy with the term "boost controller" or similar. Like this http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/429587-720-denso-top-feed-from-rb26-fit-rb25-neo/?view=findpost&p=6952094

lol!Next mod has to be shift kit for trans. They take a crazy amount of time to shift between gears. First mod for any auto should be shift kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...