Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,

After abit of thinking early in the year I decided save up and purchase a R33 GTR. At the beggining of the search I was specifically after a R33 GTR V-Spec in midnight purple, I am now at the point where I am after one that is actually decent. I don't no if I am being to picky or there isn't any good R33 GTR's about, I have spent atleast $1800 on travelling to see cars and having them inspected. To put in politely, i am starting to get the shits wasting my dorras on shitty cars.

Here is a list of some of the cars that I have inspected myself/had inspected for me!

R33 GTR V-Spec midnight purple: Lots of bad rust, boot, front gurads, underneath, inner guards, strut towers, firewall. Tyres falling apart.

R33 GTR V-spec White: Alot of under body damage, Sills and chassis rails. Rims scraping against brake calipers.

R33 GTR V-spec white: Alot of surface rust underneath, sill damage, interior pieces missing.

R33 GTR V-spec white: Alot of surface rust underneath, sill damage, inner guards surface rust.

R32 GTR: Way to clean for age of car. Under body had been sprayed black, Exterior of vehicle had been resprayed.

R32 GTR: K's weren't legit, rust holes in floor pan, front bar re-sprayed, Chassis and sill damaged. Pretty average condition

R32 GTR: K's weren't legit, pretty straight car, rust in rear and in engine bay.

R32 GTR v-spec: K's werent legit, rust in floor pan, sill and chassis rail damage, pretty average paint, interior very average.

R33 GTR V-spec White: Nice and tidy car, R/H rear quater had be repaired/replaced.

R33 GTR Midnight Purple: Previous repair in rear, Rear quater panels Repaired, Vehicle had been resprayed.

R33 GTR V-spec: Nice Car, Previous front end repair.

Some cars are dealers cars, and others are private sales

Rant over. Any one else having similar issues???

On a side note, I didnt think that repaired cars where allowed to be imported. Correct me if I am wrong.

It took the buyer of a former R33 GTR of mine, 13 months of searching.

I guess the real rants will come from the very people who buy those cars you've inspected.

I must in the same breath praise you for your due diligence!

If the history of the car &/or the stamps in the Japanese log books reveal the car's ownership to be in Northern Honshu or Hokkaido, there will be rust manifesting from underneath.

Even cars stored along any coast shall probably show surface rust to some extent - and coastal fringes are legion.

Yeah, I also worry about these cars being purchased by un suspecting buyers. The thing thats is worse is the dealers who are importing these cars and selling them.. I suppose it does pay to do your research.

I have been scanning the local R33 GT-R market as well....

Most people have bought their vehicle via a dealership, so given certain (or should I say most) import dealerships like to make a healthy profit by importing vehicles which go for next to nothing at auction in Japan (for reasons such as those you've pointed out), now you understand why you can't find a good one, even on the private market. I have been told an absolutely mint grade 4.5 R33 GT-R at auction in Japan will set you back ~30-40k landed.

It will be next to impossible to find an immaculate example of an R33 GT-R on the local market.....your only hope is to import in my opinion, and even then it's a bit risky.

Well, I didn't no a mint 33 gtr would be 30-40k landed. I wasnt expecting a perfect one for 23k (current budget) but I was hopeing to get a decent one, which looks like that won't happen either. I had thought about getting an evo 7, only real plus being they are newer.

I would say that it is a combination of luck and patience. It took me 6 months to find a clean mnp 33 with service history and it was definitely worth the wait.

Did you find one locally or did u import?

Yeah, don't be an idiot like me and buy the first overpriced skyline you see haha..

Hope you find what your looking for :)

I just know next time I buy any car, I am going over it with magnifying glass.. Chassis rail pushed back, so much bog & rusty as all crap..

I am paying for it now :/

Edited by Zrobe

It was a purchase from a private importer. he did it out of home as a hobby. Haha interesting hobby.

It was stock as a rock, factory paint, straight, and it cost me 20k. Could not have been happier.

But like you have said, I looked at alot of cars from import car yards, as I wanted a freshly imported car. And they were absolutely atrocious. Rust, doors not lining up ans just absolutely shocking! It started doing my head in aswell look8ng at the same cars on carsales!

Have a chat to some of the reputable brokers to see what is out there and an idea of price. I got a feeling you might need to pay more for a really nice car.

I simply couldn't have gotten the car I got in Australia. Price wise it was more than cars in Australia but I believe it was better value as the car is near on perfect. Good Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...