Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Had a phone call from jaustech friday at 4:30pm telling me my cars ready, couldnt get there in time to pick it up.

My footy presentation was starting at 6:30pm.

Only info i was able to get out of anthony was that my car made 272rwks, My trans soaks up alot of power and gets really hot.

Im gonna have to send the beast to mv auto 1 day, small stall and whatever else they can do to the box to support +300rwks.

Not sure on the amount of psi, all i know is that next time i send the car in i will be looking at e85 tune and a high mount exhaust manifold, should crack 300rwks then.

I will go pick my car up monday, Im pretty sure its gonna be alot more responsive then the old high flow turbo.

the guys told me my old high flow turbo had a bigger rear housing on it.

Edited by 2000 RS

Lucky you didn't blow the box on the dyno, I did.

Get a shift kit and cooler on it as a minimum, the box won't have liked getting that hot so changing the fluid will be a smart idea.

You already got billet servo and shift kit in that trans yeah ?? Have you got an aftermarket trans cooler on it ? If it makes you feel any better that is the heart brake dyno if you went to any other dyno dynamics place around ie boost worx or willall you would be getting a reading of 20kw higher so around 290kw wich is good and what you would expect from that set up . E85 alone will see you up to 300 on that dyno and 310 315 on any one else's , don't need a high mount unless you want to go for one for looks , unless you intend to chase much bigger power figs later, I still run stock inlet and exhuast manis for the moment , good effort :) good to see more and more stags getting close to and getting into the 300 :)

You already got billet servo and shift kit in that trans yeah ?? Have you got an aftermarket trans cooler on it ? If it makes you feel any better that is the heart brake dyno if you went to any other dyno dynamics place around ie boost worx or willall you would be getting a reading of 20kw higher so around 290kw wich is good and what you would expect from that set up . E85 alone will see you up to 300 on that dyno and 310 315 on any one else's , don't need a high mount unless you want to go for one for looks , unless you intend to chase much bigger power figs later, I still run stock inlet and exhuast manis for the moment , good effort :) good to see more and more stags getting close to and getting into the 300 :)

Yeh i have shift kit and billet servo, i need a bigger trans cooler for sure.

Does 20" rims effect a dyno run?

I would like to join the 300 club one day. lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...