Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Recently my clucth fan died in the skyline and rather then getting a replacement i decided to get thermo fans and a new alloy radiator.

Your up to speed so NOW!

I have done everything i needed to including swapping the thermostat while i was in there, BUT the radiator i have has not got the 2 oil leads on the bottom like the OEM had. What can i do about this? do i need to buy another radiator? because most performance alloys i find dont have the 2 oil holes at the bottom?

Any help would be great guys!

After researching i have discovered its because this radiator is for R33's (Even though everywhere even blitz market them for both?) and they do not have the oil cooling, i think its for heater? anyway I guess the question is has anybody fitted an R33 radiator to an R34? if so how did you by pass the problem?? If i find any more information i will continue to post for people to help them.

So I take it your car is auto? Normally the auto trans cooler runs through the radiator to change this around is quite simply ad another oil cooler you can get these cheap and small to place in pretty much any location that gets airflow.

I have used the expensive kits that also have a fan built onto them as standard and would have to say that I completely wasted my money, I ran a cheap one from another company and got better results. Just make sure you mount it somewhere with good airflow. I use to mount them behind the front wheel on the floor of my drag cars but I didn't have speed humps to contend with.

yeah i live ion qld and the orads are bad on a good day, I saw a Davies Craig Hydra-Cool Transmission Oil Cooler - 6 Cylinder, Universal do you think that will do? I could pick one up tomorrow from the shop. Im just looking on where to mount it. Could be annoying. thank you for the help btw.

If you have the standard front bar try mounting it on the drivers side under the head light, you will also need to make a few slots in the plastic inner wheel arch so it will be like the passengers side where the inter cooler is mounted if yours is turbo.

From memory the oil lines run up the drivers side of the engine bay, I would try to keep them as short as possible. If you really want to put them on passenger side run some addition hose along the radiator support and back, make sure you use a good hose and the cheap one will flex and perish prematurely causing a major failure for the transmission.

I have bought heaps of stuff from sydney speed supplies when I was living interstate and got it delivered the next day. They do a cooler kit at a very good price and they also have a few different styles I would try giving them a call tomorrow.

thanks for all the replies I have done everything and ended up picking up an oil cooler kit and attached it where you said in front of right side bumer air vent. everything was running fine and driving around in 60 zones ect was no problem but once i hit the high way my engine temp got really high and only after 2 or 3 mins of driving. Im using two 12" thermo fans in a shroud anfd i guess thats not good enough. I was thinking it could be because it was just bought of ebay mainly for the shroud and the fans could be very shit and i need a better quality fan. Or maybe i need to run a bigger fan on the side where the input/output coolant flows, maybe a 16" instead though if i do this i will be wasting the shroud and i havn't seend 16" shrouds for sale .

Fans are only helpful when you're still. At highway speeds, the air flowing through the radiator should keep your car at normal temperature. Either you have a very shit radiator, or you have another problem somewhere (possibly a faulty thermostat).

exactlly what i was thinking. I replaced the thermostat when i was doing the swap though the one the mechanic gave me was shorter in length but same width, was a tridon TT268-180? has opening temp of 82 degrees... so i dont think it is that? could be a shitty radiator? dont think so but posible ill do another flush and check over everything and see what i can find. I have to admit though the car does sound 10 times better then with the clutch fan, slight increase in throtle response and i found when the fans kick in it doesnt drop under 800 rpm at idle. alot of people where saying there car almost stalls when it kicks in to them people i say maybe you need to wire them better or something?

do you mean like opening the top bolts when refilling, on the air intake manifoldor/ plenum what ever you want to call it? I did that. I also bled the system the same way i usually do? never had problems before? well im going to bleed and refill and check for leeks then im going to take it out tonight for a big run. see how it goes :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...