Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fair enough, I'd strongly suggest starting by putting all new fluid through the system if you haven't changed it in the last 12 months. Just bleed the brakes until you see the colour of the fluid change at the caliper. As long as you don't let any air bubbles in while doing it this will probably give you a big increase in brake pedal feel.

Next up would be better pads, something like RB74 from Race Brakes if you are mostly doing street driving.

I'm guessing you've got a r33 gtst or r32 gtr? If so the calipers themselves are pretty good.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43113-upgrading-brakes/#findComment-880275
Share on other sites

duncan cheers

so u reckon there isnt a point in upgrading rotors too? i mainly use my car for street and the occasional drag and minimal track work.

basically i been hearing mixed comments...some say upgrade rotors and pads at the same time and some say pads first then rotors due to it not bedding in correctly, something like that.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43113-upgrading-brakes/#findComment-880445
Share on other sites

Hi d3lir10u5t, this is what I do for my Skylines. Measure the thickness of the rotors, if they are undersize then I replace them. If not, I get them machined and then put new pads in together with them. If the car has done over 100,000 k's I get the callipers serviced with new seals. At the same time I replace the rubber hoses with braided ones. Value for money pads are Bendix Ultimate, if I want better performance then I use Hawke blue compound or Performance Friction Carbon Metallics in the 97 compound. If the car is seeing any circuit work I use DBA slotted rotors.

The braking limit of my Skylines is the tyres, they let go long before the brakes do.

Hope that helps

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43113-upgrading-brakes/#findComment-880512
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...