Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Quiet day was quiet.

Drove past DOT and QPS setting up camp on the ramp to the M1 at Ormeu this morning. I casually cruised by while 6 of them all gave me the death stare.

makes you wonder how many import trophies they collected.....

Hai ants! Reply to my PM I sent you few days ago.

Or you're still too drunk to find it?

Hi Grant,

Sorry mate, I have no real excuses for not replying earlier :wacko:

PM replied now :yes:

Burnt exhaust valve, head has been sent away should be back in the coming days

should kick ass once its complete Scott.

Really need to find a nick name for your car something like the scotty-thirty :whistling:

Hey Scott, I'm building the 25 30 to lol. It's going alright, just a bit of talking and planning with dan from erd on the best way to go. Since talking my builds already doubled what I though it would. I have a fully built head with a lot of work done to it, just bought an npc twin plate clutch to handle 1000hp at the wheels. Getting under car surge tank made up in progress, working on getting harmonic balancer from Ross, but dan thinks I should look at getting the Ross trigger setup to, which is an extra $2000. So I'm not sure on that one yet, how did you go with your engine regards to timing at 4000 and 7000rpm? No jumping around or anything? And still deciding on oil pump, which will probably be a nitto pump, these are things I didn't plan on the 1st stage of the build but need all the above for balancing :(

Hey Scott, I'm building the 25 30 to lol. It's going alright, just a bit of talking and planning with dan from erd on the best way to go. Since talking my builds already doubled what I though it would. I have a fully built head with a lot of work done to it, just bought an npc twin plate clutch to handle 1000hp at the wheels. Getting under car surge tank made up in progress, working on getting harmonic balancer from Ross, but dan thinks I should look at getting the Ross trigger setup to, which is an extra $2000. So I'm not sure on that one yet, how did you go with your engine regards to timing at 4000 and 7000rpm? No jumping around or anything? And still deciding on oil pump, which will probably be a nitto pump, these are things I didn't plan on the 1st stage of the build but need all the above for balancing :(

I reckon everyone should have a crank trigger. There are cheaper ways to go though. Ask Dan about the set up in Noels car. The price ross charges is crazy.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next, remove the upper and lower radiator hoses, both are held with a spring clamp. While you are under there, tackle the Auto Trans cooler lines.  Again both are held on with spring clamps, and as mentioned above you should cap them on the radiator side with an 8mm cap, and on the car side loop them with a length of 8mm pipe - this will stop you losing a dangerous amount of AT fluid during the rest of the job If you've been meaning to add a sender for AT trans temp, this is a great time to do it; put a sender fitting into the passenger side line as that is the inlet to the cooler/radiator.
    • Next you need to remove the intake duct (as with pretty much every job on these cars), it is a series of clips you gently remove with a flat bladed screwdriver. They do get brittle with time and can break, and I have not found a decent quality aftermarket one that fits (they are all too soft or flimsy and don't last either) but the nissan ones are a couple of bucks each (ouch).  Once the clips are off (either 8 or 10, I didn't check) you lift the intake duct out and will see the reservoirs Undo the line into the radiator side cap (some bent needle nosed piers are awesome for spring clamps) and then remove the 4x 10m nuts that hold both in place.  I didn't get these pics, but remove the line under the radiator reservoir (spring clamp again) then remove that reservoir. Then you can get at the intake reservoir, same thing, spring clamp underneath then remove it. BTW This is a great time to put in a larger (+70%) combined reservoir that AMS makes..... https://www.amsperformance.com/product/q50-q60-red-alpha-coolant-expansion-tank/ They also make an Infiniti branded and part# version if that is your thing
    • To drain the Intake Heat Exchanger, there is a crappy drain plug in front of the driver's side front tyre: You should use the largest headed phillips screwdriver you had, and in my case I needed vice grips on the hose above as the plug was tight (tighter than it needed to be, since it has an o-ring seal).  After you have a tray down and open the drain, open the intake heat exchanger reservoir cap (drivers side one) and you should get a couple of litres of coolant To get to the radiator, you need to remove the plastic engine undertray. It is held on with a series of 10mm headed bolts and some clips. For the radiator, there is another type of crappy drain (kind of like a plastic banjo bolt) and you should attach a length of hose to direct the stream of coolant per this pic (otherwise the coolant hits the rad support and goes everywhere). The drain is on the rear of the radiator on the driver's side and a bit hard to find. Put a big tray or bucket down (5l won't be enough) and slowly unscrew the fitting by hand. You only want to remove it far enough for coolant to flow, it you unscrew it right out the whole fitting and direction pipe will come off and you will get a coolant bath (yum!). Undo the radiator reservoir cap and it should empty about 8l
    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You also need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator so you will need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. 2 other tools that really help dealing with coolant lines and spring clamps are Bent Needle Nose pliers Hose pliers Between them they will reduce the frustration (and injury) potential by about 1000% Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
×
×
  • Create New...