Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Looking good Scottie

my original thought was to try and keep the stealth look about it.

But then i thought the sound of the car and the big as F*#k drag wing on the rear kind of gives it away lol

Are you coming to happy laps Ants? even if its just spectating and racking up KM's on the Anteater but no tracking
i will see how I go mate. Still got a bit of resto / paint work to do on car before it runs again.

Plus suspension and brakes need some Zac attention :)

Nice one. Mr Scott, how goes the brakes?

Quite good actually .Well the car doesnt get driven all that much but when it went to QR they handled really well. However my mechanic seems to think I put them on upside down. Either way they still seem to work fine

Ants, loving the CF detail in the map pockets. Very nice!

I went through a stage a CF wrapping almost everything. It gets so addictive

Quite good actually .Well the car doesnt get driven all that much but when it went to QR they handled really well. However my mechanic seems to think I put them on upside down. Either way they still seem to work fine

I went through a stage a CF wrapping almost everything. It gets so addictive

How did you manage to put them on the wrong good way around? Pics!

How did you manage to put them on the wrong good way around? Pics!

well Richo reckons the bleeder should be on the top and not the bottom like Ive done. SO the Left Caliper should actually be on the right rotor and vise-versa. If you know what I mean...

IMAG0445_zpsrhpphoml.jpg

#@MagicMikeZ32 might be able to shed some light on this?

I reckon he is right

He races cars every weekend so I think he is right as well. HE reckons that there "may" be some air left in them right at the top. So potentionally they will work even better. however the effort of taking them off and on again really doesn't tickle my fancy

I agree. They work really really well once warm now. Hard to think they could be even better!

Also a put a fresh set of plugs in yesterday so my misfiring issue is resolved short term. New coil project in the works though

I agree. They work really really well once warm now. Hard to think they could be even better!

Also a put a fresh set of plugs in yesterday so my misfiring issue is resolved short term. New coil project in the works though

They won't stop you faster or anything but it will give you a better pedal feel which is always handy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...