Jump to content
SAU Community

Mugabetown - Whoretownin' At It's Worst.


Recommended Posts

Your car is probably beyond the point of mountains now. Doesn't turn fast enough and probably isn't responsive enough. You really need a light chassis with power that's readily available. It's the proven formula. Learning how to use a steering wheel will prevent falls.

Agree entirely, still there's something about the chance that my money sapping motor vehicle could meets its doom. Maybe I'm just a pussy

3BO4vHD.png

lol

More to the point, I had a poorly tuned stock ls1... Like I said woopy do, if you don't have cubes but have the technology why put a potato in your exhaust?

Get a big evil turbo and turn the numbers everyone likes to see lol

Everyone loves a Dyno Queen

More to the point, I had a poorly tuned stock ls1... Like I said woopy do, if you don't have cube but have the technology why put a potato in your exhaust?

Get a big evil turbo and turn the numbers everyone likes to see lol

Most of the cars with big numbers that every one likes to see spend all their time doing just that, making big numbers on a dyno in a shed. Any place else they are shit to drive. To borrow your phrase, woopy do.

  • Like 1
Agree entirely, still there's something about the chance that my money sapping motor vehicle could meets its doom. Maybe I'm just a pussy

lol

Everyone loves a Dyno Queen

That's the other part of the issue Scott. At the LP sprints where McFly had the Pinny out, he was out there recording stupid fast times in the piss down wet because, frankly, he didn't give a rats about the damn thing. Went slower in the wedge because he didn't want to hurt her. It's a massive psychological barrier when you've spent shit loads of cash, hours and sweat to build something you actually truly love and then risk hurting.

That's the other part of the issue Scott. At the LP sprints where McFly had the Pinny out, he was out there recording stupid fast times in the piss down wet because, frankly, he didn't give a rats about the damn thing. Went slower in the wedge because he didn't want to hurt her. It's a massive psychological barrier when you've spent shit loads of cash, hours and sweat to build something you actually truly love and then risk hurting.

BINGO!

Most of the cars with big numbers that every one likes to see spend all their time doing just that, making big numbers on a dyno in a shed. Any place else they are shit to drive. To borrow your phrase, woopy do.

800hp is still 800hp when that beast wakes up it'd knock the earth off it's rotation, god I hate this "responsive" "street friendly" crap :rant:

Get yo own phrase straw man lol

800hp is still 800hp when that beast wakes up it'd knock the earth off it's rotation, rajab I hate this "responsive" "street friendly" crap :rant:

Get yo own phrase straw man lol

Sometimes i wonder how responsive you can an 800hp setup.

Like i think mine is responsive [in perspective] for 600hp. Full boost at 4500prm. I wonder if i concentrated on bringing that on earlier just how it would fair...

Hell should have just stroked it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...