Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I understand that they have inbuilt ignitors in the coilpacks, and have the signal from the CAS to fire, BUT if you were to use the s1 loom using the EXTERNAL IGNITOR with the s1 coils, will I be able to do this? I can sell the coilpacks, but I'm I want to see if it can be done, the coils are less than 2000km old, it's cheaper If I can go this way and to be honest in my opinion integrated ignitors on coilpacks is a more un reliable set up as it's introducing further heat to a area which is prone to cracking ect ect, it's not so much about $$ but more so using what I have and reliability

Cheers

the connection wont fit. but if you get the ignitor loom, and coil loom you can cut and wire it in manually. a good tuner electrician should be able to do this without any issues.

but you are better off trying to find someone who would be keen to swap the s1 coils for a s2 set.

by the time you wire it all up its going to be better to just sell the coil packs and buy a proper series 2 set.

Cheers guys, I'm not to bad with electrical, I just wasn't sure if the ecu wouldn't read it or if it was throwing out different voltages ect ect, so in saying that I should be able to do it,

Thanks alot, appreciate the help

The ECU sends the same signals out regardless of which coils/igniters are at the other end of the loom. It's just that the wires run direct from the ECU to the coils in the S2 case and have to stop off at the igniter in the S1 case. In the same way, the various igniters don't much care which ECU is telling them to fire, and they also don't much care which coil they're then firing (assuming separate coil and igniter), unless the coil also has an igniter, which is not so good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
    • Yes sir am asking is there possible way from aem tuner from wiring pins 
    • Have you checked cam to crank timing and confirmed balancer marks are correct?
×
×
  • Create New...