Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

My e-boost is set now so that when i run SP3 (highest boost setting 17psi) the car reaches it in every gear. First gear wheelspins around 4000rpm and I need to change gears and dont have full boost in second which makes the car a lot slower. I would love to run 12-14psi in 1st gear and then 17psi in the other gears.

Is this possible with the e-boost?

The instruction guide is useless to me.

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/
Share on other sites

You can't program it to run differet boost in different gears. What you can do is set it up with SP2 andSP3 hardwired to switches. I have 2 rocket switches in the centre console just in front of the storage compartment 1 green and 1 red. My normal everyday boost is 14.5psi, flipping the green switch brings up SP2 at 18psi and the red one SP3 at 22psi.

So use normal boost in first then change to 2nd and as your hand comes off the gearlever it falls to the switches and you flip on whichever one you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882317
Share on other sites

The latest in Hi-tech electronics, featuring a 16 bit RISC based FLASH memory CPU – faster and smoother boost response

Utilises the latest in surface mount technology – lighter, smaller and ultra compact

Electronics are housed in an anodised billet aluminium alloy housing – offering durability and reliability in harsh race conditions

Programmable gate pressure function to totally eliminate wastegate creep - you tell the wastegate when to open

Three internally or externally activated and individually programmable boost set points

Drag racers - improve your launch, run a different boost in each gear

High accuracy boost and vacuum display, readout accurate to within +/- 0.5% of full scale, boost gauge no longer required – great value

Readout can be tailored to suit your needs – display can be configured in KPA, Bar or PSI

Easy to read seven segment display with programmable bar graph and glow in the dark buttons

Programmable auxiliary output – e.g. water spray control, water/methanol injection, boost light

Programmable audible warning alarm – excellent for over-boost warning or full boost confirmation

Peak hold/Max Boost recall function

Revolutionary gauge type construction allows many practical mounting solutions – 66mm in diameter 55mm long. Suitable for Panel mounting, or in any 2 5/8 inch gauge pod or pillar mounting system.

unless that means exactly as you describe without pointing out that it requires additional wiring etc, if so i stand corrected

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882639
Share on other sites

Guys,

My e-boost is set now so that when i run SP3 (highest boost setting 17psi) the car reaches it in every gear. First gear wheelspins around 4000rpm and I need to change gears and dont have full boost in second which makes the car a lot slower. I would love to run 12-14psi in 1st gear and then 17psi in the other gears.  

Is this possible with the e-boost?

The instruction guide is useless to me.

Evan

I use the throttle to control the wheelspin :thankyou:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882640
Share on other sites

thanks for the replies.

in the guide it has a section about the sensitivity.

Automatically set to 10. Adjustments can be between 0-99.

Sensitivity too low - Achieve more boost in high gears

- Takes longer to achieve boost set point

- Boost drops off at higher RPM

Sensitivity correct - Boost rises quickly and is steady

Sensitivity too high - Boost pressure fluctuates, cycles or is not smooth

- Boost pressure overshoots set point - rises too fast

51jay, Good idea I might have to look in to that, thanks.

Jimbo, I guess if thats what it says I will ring them.

Sydneykid, yeh trying that, I need more skills.

Thanks guys

If anyone does know how else to do it please reply.

I will ring turbosmart and see what they say and update the thread.

Evan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882685
Share on other sites

Quote

Drag racers - improve your launch, run a different boost in each gear

Well you could do it in 3 gears as e-boost has 3 available settings for boost level, however e-boost will not change between these boost levels for you . You have to exhert yourself either by pressing the up/down buttons on the e-boost itself or by hardwiring sp2 and sp3 through a switch or switches. e-boost defaults to sp1 when turned on.

rb20-calais you really need to set it up on a dyno or if on the road...with someone who knows what he's doing it's mostly a trial and error thing so make sure you have a reasonable overboost cut set befor you fiddle

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43209-e-boost-question/#findComment-882897
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the workaround with Nistune I was talking about, just add in more timing on the decel table And play around with the fuel cut & recovery, it's enough to stop it from stalling on a decel  
    • Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
    • If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
×
×
  • Create New...