Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you have ever dabbled with aftermarket bars for the V35 you will come to realise (as I did) that our cars are VERY low, and fibreglass bars break quite easily and are an endless source of frustration.

I finally bit the bullet and ordered one of these awesome copy Nismo urethane bars out of the USA. Then when I got a postage quote of $1,250 I nearly died. So I bought a few to make the postage cost effective, and subsequently have spares for sale.

They are imho superior to the factory Nismo items, as these are made of urethane (in fact they almost feel like rubber), whereas the genuine bars are fibreglass and break with a decent crunch.

The fit is near enough to perfect, and indicators fit near enough to perfect also (unlike the other fg bar I have had, the fit of which was AWFUL).

They are located in Adelaide, but I can ship if required. I would imagine shipping would be around $100-$150 within Aus depending on destination. Weight is around 10kg, but obviously cubic weight is much higher.

$1.000 each (which if you have ever imported one yourself you will realise is a great deal - and saves you the headaches importing them and the issues and costs with customs I won't go into!).

These are THE bars for V35s in my opinion, and given they are urethane and almost unbreakable, may be the last bar you ever buy for your V35.

post-669-0-20514300-1379925388_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-40914800-1379925393_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-79369400-1379925395_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-99881000-1379925398_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-07594100-1379925401_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-13630400-1379925403_thumb.jpg

post-669-0-36012500-1379925405_thumb.jpg

Yeah but look at it as an investment - if you went out and bought a fibreglass bar for say $350 and had it painted $250-$300, you would break it in around a year and need a new one (like I did). Instead, buy one of these for $900, have it painted $250-$300 and it should last you for the life of the car :) ... plus the finish on them isn't bad - you could easily run around with it fitted and unpainted until you could afford to get it painted :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Here's a pic of one trial fitted to my V35 (unpainted - and needs a bit to more work to get perfect - will be 100% perfect once painted and refit). Getting it painted shortly.

post-669-0-37296500-1381915959_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Here's a pic of one fitted (unpainted) to my V35. Getting it painted shortly.

attachicon.gifIMG_1781.JPG

Nice. It looks like a great fit - but now I just want your lights... :wub:

Stuart

  • 1 month later...

I would really love to have a nismo bumper but i have an oem front with new lip on now. Furthermore, someone donated 2 x GTR fronts to me..... so it would be a waste not to try on the spares before buying a new one. First world problems.... sigh. Btw how much is shipping to NSW anyway? Who knows -> A magical pot of gold might be at the end of some rainbow waiting for me.

Edited by SuperDry2013

Hey Superdry, did u and your cousin / brother buy the gt Wing carbon + set of wheels and tires from me ? I think Im the one who donated the GTR front. did u figure out to make some use of them. pardon me if im wrong :D

Hmm sounds like a matching story. My cousin just said he had a surprise for me one day. The bumpers are sitting in storage for now until we have time for fitment. Its a little "Ricer" but i'll give it a try. How come you did not want the bumper?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...