Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all. Bought my first Stag on the weekend. Thanks to rb26stagea for recommending me a mechanic, they did a great job.

So its a '99' Rs4 S in manual trim. Black leather seats, bodykit of some description with 118,000kms on the clock.

It's not perfect, it has rust on the doors, its in need of a bloody good service and so far, the most annoying thing is my seat. Its electric and doesn't work. Someone know how to fix this or work the problem?

Oh, rb26stagea, the mechanic recommended I speak to you when I asked in regards to rust removal from the doors.....

So someone I can take the car to in regards to my electric seat not functioning?

Forgot to mention it cost me $7000.

Bargain.

post-67698-0-45142500-1379982135_thumb.jpg

post-67698-0-35276000-1379982175_thumb.jpg

post-67698-0-63925700-1379982190_thumb.jpg

Edited by patrickd79
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432265-my-new-nissan-stagea/
Share on other sites

Welcome. The electric seats may not be hooked up because the rs4s never came with them, only released in one trim level( same seats as r34gtt) . Maybe just need power?

For the rust treatment under the mirrors find a panel shop you like, get them too take their time and do a decent job. I had mine done 2 years ago and need to have it redone but I think the initial work was a little slack.

I think Bodella is onto the electric seat thing. Does the passenger side one work?

Also, if you're in brisbane, I can recommend you an excellent panel shop that has done mirror rust repair on numerous Stageas (including mine :) ).

looks like a pretty good bargain you got there

seat wise, rs4s's never came with electric leather seats, but i'm pretty sure they only need a 12v power supply to move

they might also be heated, which would need some switches and wiring

thats also the stock bodykit

I'd check that the timing belt was changed at 100,000 kms and do all the fluids (gearbox and diffs) just to be safe

Hi Patrick,

Good to hear it all turned out well!

I used Harvey's Smash to get my rust taken care of, but it was expensive (although they did an exceelent job). They have since sold the business, so not too sure what they're like now... A good panel beater is difficult to find, especially on the Gold Coast. I did have someone recommended to me by Myles (GreenGhost) for work on my daily driver, but can't remember who it was: maybe drop him a pm and ask...?

I know he's had his doors done in the last couple of years too.

Welcome to the group!

Thanks guys.

The car is driving well, it's going in for all the maintenance required next week so then it will pur. Not that it doesn't already.

Very happy with my choice.

Oh yes, the passenger seat works just fine so hoping it is just a loose wire.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...