Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

It looks as though i have my air pocket issues sorted. Replaced the reservoir with a second hand item from a 33 that was in much better condition, now the little filter thing in the reservoir is letting the air out and it's no longer building up and causing issues......onto the next issue..there always seems to be something

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • 5 months later...

Ok, so that wasn't the end of the story, problem was much better but still a problem. I noticed my Attesa pump was a little noisy and figured the accumulator was probably empty causing the pump to run way more than it should so I changed the accumulator (approx $300 from RHDjapan).

What a difference! now when bleeding the front bleed nipple i get a nice constant stream of fluid with pump kicking in intermittently as opposed to before where pump would go non stop, also fluid returns to reservoir much quicker after engine has been turned off (majority within 6 hours, all within 12) whereas before it was taking 3-4 days!! Most importantly no sign of any air pocket! Have been for a couple of drives (maybe around 900km) and nothing at all, no air...........Hallelujah!!!

Wish i had changed the Accumulator ages ago, wondering how long my pump will last now (given that it's making some noise)... don't fancy having to buy a new one @ $3200! I wonder how many people are just driving around with empty accumulators and dont even know.

anyway hopefully that's the last of it, and this helps out someone in the future.

  • Like 1

I searched this thread as i seem to have a similar issue. I have a significant overflow in the reserve bottle and fluid all over my transfer case. Im not sure if it's leaking from a seal just yet. Are there any open breathers it can leak from on the transfer case? Could it be gear oil from the gearbox leaking down? I only noticed it today and havent had a chance to get a proper look. Any thoughts?

Some relevant background info : Also when my car was on the dyno it could not overcome the inertia of the rollers on the front wheels. This pointed to issues with the tc. Since then i replaced the atf fluid in tc and attempted to bleed the system, however the attessa pump did not seem to be working. The front wheels seem to be pulling and the torque gauge is lively under acceleration or wheel spin.

Can you hear the pump pressuring the system when you turn on the ignition? it should prime for about 5 seconds and the fluid level in the attesa reservoir will drop about an inch.

Given that your front wheels are getting no drive i would say either your pump is dead or the clutches in the transfer case are totally worn out, probably the former.

the torque gauge on the dash just shows the amount of power the computer wants to send to the front not how much power IS getting there....not sure about the leaking fluid, i think there is a breather on top of the gearbox and also the transfer case but i don't know why it would be leaking out

Your issues sound expensive, good luck :unsure:

Sorry i may have explained this poorly in my last post.

The car was not getting much front drive when i first bought it. Then it was dyno'd where it was noticed. Fluid was changed and bled only after the first dyno run. It hasnt been on a 4wd dyno since so i cannot confirm or deny if the issue was completely fixed.. I cannot recall if the pump primed or not but I can confirm only a small amount of fluid came out when priming the system, i expected a steady stream.. Maybe its time to try again... HOWEVER...when driving and pushing the car hard out of a corner, especially in the rain you can feel the front wheel drive straghten out the front end so im pretty certain changing the fluid helped the transfer case somewhat.

Question - if the pump is faulty will the tc work at all? I heard the torque gauge is a pressure sensor which would only show readings when there is pressure in the tc (hence the pump is working)..?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I got a full sheet set of OEM copied stickers to replace all the faded engine bay ones, great quality too.  Came from England. Someone like that should be able to to make u up what u want so long as u have a quality image to show them 🤷🏻‍♂️
    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
×
×
  • Create New...