Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys as the name suggests, was wondering if it was normal to lose power in the high rpm after a coil pack change? The coil packs were atomics, apparently they were as good as spitfires (according to the chart) so my cousin decided to buy it, and the power just dipped every since. We just want confirmation that it was indeed the coilpacks, not something else? To my knowledge dodgy coilpacks usually result in misfires not just loss is performance(without symptoms). We just want confirmation that it actually is the coilpacks, if not what else could it be? Spark plugs have also been changed(pfr5g11).

Cheers

Edited by Deza3000

Weak spark could still be to blame. Aftermarket coilpacks are all shit, including splitfires, and they're very often faulty fresh out of the box.

I would clean or replace the plugs, gap them properly, reset the ecu.

Oh really? yea thats what i thought too, i told him to get genuine nissans but they were 1k, so we just looked for the best alternative, sadly we were too stupid to do adequate research ==' Ill get them changed to factory nissan then, hopefully it makes a difference. ill do exactly what you said, cheers for the advice man!

  • 1 month later...

Did you connect the two vacuum lines on the side of the plenum in the right spots. One is for the dual vanes in the intake manifold. If you mix them up the vanes won't open and the car will struggle to rev past 5000rpm. The one that goes to the actuator for the vanes should be closest to the firewall

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...