Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1993 Nissan Skyline GTS with built BR20DET Turbo (balanced, blue printed, oil control, forged pistons, head studs, race bearings etc...) prepared for dedicated Drift and Track work.
Power FC, Nismo 2-Way LSD with big shafts, Big brakes, full suspension package, race seat and harness, spare wheels, fire extinguisher, CAMS compliant with all markings. Scrutineers no worries. Lightweight chassis. Ready to go nothing to spend.
With the big front brakes and 205RWkW professionally tuned, predictable handling and 2Way LSD, it is a lot of fun and slides very well! With a different wheel alignment would be an excellent (grip) track car.
The car has done less than one season. Engine about 15 hours old. NO DENTS OR RUST. NEVER needed to limiter bash either.
I am a qualified mechanic and am confident it will be reliable to the new owner and can do a compression test / jack it up and look under, whatever test and let you drive it no worries.
Action on board footage:


Reluctant sale. Being a grown up. $8K ono

Need deposit on a house.

email preferred [email protected]

PLEASE DO NOT POST HERE

Darwin.

lc1q.jpg

wu31.jpg

pz5m.jpg
wgnl.jpg
w7zi.jpg


post-100081-0-55943900-1380877816_thumb.jpg

post-100081-0-06451700-1380877818_thumb.jpg

post-100081-0-99257500-1380878272_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/432833-r32-drift-track-car/
Share on other sites

Engine:

Balanced crank and rods, blueprinted to Nissan specs at minimum clearances, ROSS forged pistons, ARP head studs, race main and big end bearings, oil control head restriction, cleaned lifters, full new OEM gasket set, new timing belt kit, checked oil pump clearances, new crank sprocket, etc....

Turbo:

Hi flowed TD06-19C, Trust dump and cold side elbow, stainless intake bell to compressor, waste-gate dump had separate exhaust where it re-joins main dump, aftermarket adjustable waste-gate actuator holding 17 psi (turbo can do way more and engine responds well to boost), 3 inch exhaust all the way with bashed cat. FMIC, pod filter, power FC

Has aftermarket coil packs, heavy duty clutch, 5 speed gearbox AND PLEASE READ FIRST POST

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...